Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

As most of us know, R33's stall as hell when there's a atmospheric installed - it plays with the airflow meter, mixtures and ecu settings etc which caused really bad stalling issues... I've put back my stock BOV, but I miss the nice pod-suction sound heaps and also the Sshhhhttt sound - driving a turbo without this sound really is a bit of a let-down.

I've heard though, if I get a BOV which has 2 sides - one that plumbs back and the other that vents out - I'll still satisfy the requirements of the car and will also get the nice blow-off sound.

Which ones would do the above - any suggestions, fellas?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197754-best-plumb-back-bov/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

GFB Hybrid bov does exactly what you asked for.

I've got one, but ive got mine plumbed back entirely. I dont like the pssshht lol. I used to have it 50/50 plumbed and atmo. The car stalled a few times over months it was like this, usually under hard braking.

GFB Hybrid bov does exactly what you asked for.

I've got one, but ive got mine plumbed back entirely. I dont like the pssshht lol. I used to have it 50/50 plumbed and atmo. The car stalled a few times over months it was like this, usually under hard braking.

I love the pppssshhhhtttt sound. lol

I hate it when the car stalls if full atmo, so I'll go 50/50 then... yeah, was also thinking of the GFB Stealth FX BOV... sounds nice and also heard some times it doesn't stall on R33's... what can you do though.. ha ha ha

Thanks.

I wonder why everyone's going back to stock - is there a reason for this?

Just keep the stock man, you can't go wrong!

I used a SSQ for like 10 minutes, then blocked the stock BOV off..

1 week later and I unblocked it all and had it running normal.. you don't realize how smooth and nice it runs with the stock plumb back setup until you change it :P

The stalling, lag between gears, its just annoying.

My opinion anyways.

Edited by abu
Just keep the stock man, you can't go wrong!

I used a SSQ for like 10 minutes, then blocked the stock BOV off..

1 week later and I unblocked it all and had it running normal.. you don't realize how smooth and nice it runs with the stock plumb back setup until you change it :P

The stalling, lag between gears, its just annoying.

My opinion anyways.

Wow, thanks for the heads up mate... but I love the Ssshhhtttt sound... damn it... really love that sound... but I know what you mean buddy.... I know perfectly what you're referring to... stock does make the car run much smoother - not to mention no more stalling which is a pain in the arse... thanks mate...

If done right, would the GFB work just as well if no lag?

Cheers,

any bov will not stall if you tighten it up a lot. my line was imported with hks ssqv and never stalled. about 6 months in everyone i knew was getting pulled over so i changed to an r34 gtt bov, which is the same as a gtst, and can still hear turbo noises to make me love driving the car, but dont have to worry about getting into trouble lol. its a stupid thing to be defected for, especially when the original equipment is so good

i guess if you really like the sound then in the end its your call. i drove a rex with one and after a day of driving i was over the sound..ha. negatives outweigh the positives in my books so i stuck with the stocker. i still get the pshh sound with my arc box, just not as loud though.

i was wondering if u do get something like gfb stealth fx and tune it for full atmo

and sometimes you decide to adjust it so its full plumbback how this would affect the car?

if u did this, when the car was running a full plumb back when its tuned for atmo, ud be running your engine really lean and could cause engine damage.

And how exactly do you tune a car with an AFM to run an atmo BOV?

with an safc, the DecAir settings. on a full aftermakert ecu with a deceleration enrichment/enleanment correction map (what its called can vary from ecu to ecu).

any bov will not stall if you tighten it up a lot. my line was imported with hks ssqv and never stalled. about 6 months in everyone i knew was getting pulled over so i changed to an r34 gtt bov, which is the same as a gtst, and can still hear turbo noises to make me love driving the car, but dont have to worry about getting into trouble lol. its a stupid thing to be defected for, especially when the original equipment is so good

Yeah I know what you mean... is the 'original' stuff that good? sounds good... I gotta say, the stock one doesn't stall is that's a first...

But I really miss the nice tough suction sound and the ssshhhtttt let off sound.... how the heck can I modify the original to give off more sound whilst not stalling the damn car? :)

I heard blocking the hole spools up faster but will crash the car.

the only reason ur car stalls wen its at full atmo is because u havnt tuned it to have a fulla tmo BOV. i run a atmo bov all day every day and it never stalls ever.

I'm going to install a emanage - do you think the BOV can be tuned to work fine without no more stalling?

Thanks.

^^ Nah he's serious, have a read of his other threads. *shakes head*

Thien, you cant get the sound of venting to atmosphere without the problems that come along with it, unless you change over to an ecu that does not use an AFM.

ive had no probs with my vta hks ssq.

stock ecu and management.

it actually has increased response.

lol and for some reason i gained 0.3hp (yay).

so apart from the pssscchhhhttt sound man. there is no real benefit of going vta. just means when u accellerate u get that at times unwanted effect and the attention that comes with it.

im sure there has to be atleast 1 1000hp+ car out there that runs a plumb back bov... surely?

Edited by r33cruiser

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...