Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone can think of cars that are both pretty (to keep the girl happy) and reasonably quick (to keep me happy)

Criteria:

Under $20,000

should have 4 seats

reasonable sized boot

2 door's

comfy seats

I have suggested and she has said no:

Any skylines (I had a bit of a cry, and still no...)

Silvia's / 200sx

Alfa Romeo GTV (both types)

Toyota MR2

Soarers

BMW's

Honda civic / prelude / integra (getting desperate)

We have driven all of these and they have failed for reasons ranging firm ride to the windscreen isn't big enough...

Things she likes the look of but we havnt driven yet:

180sx (she doesnt know they are built on the same base as a silvia - crossing my fingers)

supra

300zx

FTO

Is there anything else in the $20k range that I am forgetting? We only have an old lancer at the moment (her car) so it shouldnt be this difficult to sell her the idea of a decent car!

Thanks for your help :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197802-ideas-for-next-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

fto - i find them to be crappy when compared to the likes of supras and skylines

20k - u can probably get a 1993 twin turbo supra - but the condition may not be as good

personally id go for the supra

another car she can look at is the corolla levin - the 2 door jap spec one.....i forget what its exact name is.....

The guy wants a car with 2 door guys.

I wouldn't recommend the supra if you're planning on having children or have them already. I wouldn't call the things at the back, seats or that small hole in the rear, a boot. Forget supra if you're looking at having a family at some stage.

There's not much other 2 door cars I can think of that's 'good'.

If you went 4 doors as well. I would go for the A4 or JZX90 mark II or JZX100 chaser.

Good luck!

Edited by adam-__-

Well why a 2 door...

That and most of those cars don't have a boot anyway.

Split the money, $10k gets you an R32, $10k gets her an astra. Done and done. Then you have 8-10 seats, and 2 boots!

Edited by dangerous_daveo
Well why a 2 door...

That and most of those cars don't have a boot anyway.

Split the money, $10k gets you an R32, $10k gets her an astra. Done and done. Then you have 8-10 seats, and 2 boots!

thats great thinking there.

grow a set of nuts and buy the car you want?
Tell her to get back to the kitchen where she belongs.
Ask what she would like, listen patiently to her reasons then buy what you want anyway and tell her to have a coke and a smile and shut the f**k up

these people all make sense!

saying that, I would go the Supra if I was pussy whipped :)

Edited by Nexus9

+1 FOR A STAGEA

My missus was dark at me for not buying her a corolla (!) but after she drove it, she reckons it was the first car she ever came emotionally attached to. They go pretty well when stock (well, compared to a commonwhore of foulcan wagon anyway) you have all the same mod options of a skyline, about 10 times the interior room, and the NVH and build quality far surpass any other wagon I have ever driven.

Having said that, the Audi A3 1.8t is a horn of a car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
    • Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • f**king around with the bro
×
×
  • Create New...