Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

As the topic suggests, anyone done a R33-R34 front conversion yet? I am very interested in doing this - how hard would it be, what would be involved and what would costs look like?

What can I say, a flawless R33 body and tough back lights with a breath-taking R34 front bar - damn, if only such a car is sold on the market... no other car would come close.

Please post up some pictures and/or your experiences.

Thanks all.

Pictures:

10ej0c4.jpg

10ej0ns.jpg

10ej2qc.jpg

10ej2v6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198078-any-r334s-out-there/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When I read the subject line I thought "oh no, dont tell me..."

but when I saw the pics I thought that actually doesn't look too bad.

I'm all for making your car unique as long as it still looks good and IMO this fits the bill perfectly.

If you did this you'd have one VERY unique ride >_< would turn heads for sure!

That looks tough as! I probably couldn't justifying spending so much to do it though. Probably better off selling the 33 and getting a 34, but even then you wouldn't have a 34 gtr kit on it.

just buy an r34...

i dont know why ppl do this shit....

its like 34 gtr fronts on stageas, i dont like them either.

waste of time and money imo.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

atleast here u still have the nice flowing lines of a r33 with the sharp bulbous nose of the 34.

best of both worlds

u see how it looks low and sharp. where as if he bought a 34 is would look shit

Edited by r33cruiser
nice job, but still not worth the cash

for the money you'd pay you can get a 34

Actually, it doesn't cost all that much considering.

A couple of thousand inc panels.

And considering people are struggling to sell R33s for $13000 these days, it's a far sight less then buying an decent 34.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

Not sure what 34's you've been looking at. The only reason that 33 looks low is because of the rear bar. Get a similar thing on a 34 and it'll look low as.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

atleast here u still have the nice flowing lines of a r33 with the sharp bulbous nose of the 34.

best of both worlds

u see how it looks low and sharp. where as if he bought a 34 is would look shit

Couldn't have said it any better... you stole my words... exactly mate, and this is totally personal - but the R33 has very fine looking lines, a great shape and a timeless look to it... the front is tough as too so overall, in my opinion; the R33 if modified cosmetically right (or R33 GTR stock) looks awesome... having said that... the R34 front is (especially on the GTR) is... damn... I'm stuck for words... totally jaw-dropping... very nice... hence, a lot of people do this conversion as you get best of both worlds...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...