Jump to content
SAU Community

From '05 Wrx To '02 R34 V-spec Ii Nur -> Daily Driver?

cpitts

By cpitts,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

cpitts Newbie

cpitts

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I've been reading up on the threads about Nur's and their power levels (one thread said anywhere from 280-420hp :laugh: ), ANYWAY, I've currently got a 2005 WRX with a few light mods (making ~165kW ATW @ AVO in Mlb) and have always pined for a R34 GTR V-Spec or V-Spec II. Given that I'm in a situation that when my lease expires in ~11mths time, I'll be able to finally get the car I've been after, I thought I'd do some research with existing owners first. (you guys) I've seen a few people from here on www.wrx.com.au forums (VIC WRX Club) so thought this would be a good port of call.

Older threads have warned a lot of people away from the older GTR's due to thrashing, age and general failure of the cars (performance cars do that). Here's a blurt of questions:

1. Are the 'newer' R34 GTR V-Spec II and V-Spec II Nur's prone to these failures or are they still 'young' enough?

2. I'm looking at a V-Spec II Nur as a daily driver (with only minor mods [no turbo's]), is daily driver a real situation with these cars? Or are they just too harsh?

3. Has anyone actually dyno'd a stock NUR and got a power/torque/MAP graph for it?

4. Can the exporters/importers/sellers hack the new digital speedo's on the the R34's? Some almost seem to have REAL km figures?!?!

5. Why all the hype (in some threads) for the M-Spec Nur when it's the 'lesser' of the V-Spec II and the M-Spec (comfy spec)? :cheers:

I'm leaning towards the V-Spec II Nur because it has all the weak points addressed from the factory (steel bladed turbo's, pistons, rods, water pump, fuel pump, block, etc) as this will form an excellent base for working up a good amount of power to the limits of the stock turbos (as far as I want to go).

This will most likely start a raft of follow on questions as I think of them and others respond. At this stage, any advice is gratefully accepted. :)

One of the main reasons for this thread is also that I'd REAAAAAALY like to look at, touch and maybe go for a quick passenger ride in a STOCK NUR and a STOCK V-Spec II so I can make some sort of judgement based on feel of the cars. Have been for a run in a lightly modded R33 V-Spec but that was a few years back and the R34 is a good bit updated to the R33.

Thx, guys/girls.

choyda Veteran

choyda

Posted
Posted

Not sure how much help I'll be but:

1. I'd say the newer ones are young enough. It really depends on the history of the car and real mileage. The Nur's are going to be stronger than the normal V-Spec II's.

2. Some say the car is taxing to drive and the clutch is heavy. I've never minded driving mine almost daily (I bus it more now though). I guess in heavy traffic its a bit of a pain but all is forgotten once theres a gap :)

3. Can't help you there. Mine is a V-Spec but I haven't dyno'd it.

4. Yes. Try and find one that doesnt have an aftermarket speedo (like the Nismo speedo) as this is where a km's are usually trimmed but the stock speedo I'm sure is just as easy to adjust.

5. Not sure what you mean here but M-Spec is the luxury model, a tad heavier irrespective of it being Nur or not. V-Spec II Nur is the quickest (apart from the Z-Tune).

I guess an M-Spec Nur just means its luxurious and stronger than regular V-Specs.

cpitts Newbie

cpitts

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Buy an STI, you poof! :)

Thanx Daz, :laughing-smiley-014: why ? :D

Honestly, why? The new hatch is a nowhere piece of tupperware. I'd buy a Mazda based on that styling before an STi, cause they look better!

The 2.5l STi donk is now pretty good, as is the running gear under it, but I MUCH prefer the possibilities with a GTR and the jaw dropping look of it. Would have to get black again I think, have my washing technique a LOT more under control now with much better results. :blink:

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

This is the car you want to buy and leave it alone, only light mods , buyt a good low km car and she won't let you down, I didn't buy this because they wanted to much money back in 2004 so I bought an M-spec.

Daily driver? Why not but don't expect limo ride on any GTR or STI for that matter.

post-5240-1198060660_thumb.jpg

post-5240-1198060892_thumb.jpg

cpitts Newbie

cpitts

Posted
  • Author
Posted
This is the car you want to buy and leave it alone, only light mods , buyt a good low km car and she won't let you down, I didn't buy this because they wanted to much money back in 2004 so I bought an M-spec.

Daily driver? Why not but don't expect limo ride on any GTR or STI for that matter.

Isn't that (the black M-Spec Nur) the one you said in another thread coughed smoke at startup due to ineffectively bedded rings?

I don't expect a limo ride. I run my WRX with 41psi all round purely for the extra go-kart road feel. Even the little kiddies like listening to their voice as they bump along some of the rough roads. :blink:

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Isn't that (the black M-Spec Nur) the one you said in another thread coughed smoke at startup due to ineffectively bedded rings?

I don't expect a limo ride. I run my WRX with 41psi all round purely for the extra go-kart road feel. Even the little kiddies like listening to their voice as they bump along some of the rough roads. :blink:

Well thats my opinion, no proof as I didn't buy the car, thats the reason I say they wanted to much money for it .

When I said this is the car you want to buy, I ment a NUR M-spec, not that very car, I wouldn't know where that car is now or if its for sale, that pic was taken in 2004 at Osaka.

I don't care how much pressure you put in the tyres. if you have stock WRX susspension you can't compare it to a GTR or even STI, they are much harder. I have owned several WRX's , STI's and GTRS.

cpitts Newbie

cpitts

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thx wrxhoon. Appreciate where you're coming from treading a similar path (WRX to GTR). re the suspension, that's why I'm looking to get a run in one before purchase.

Can I ask why you recommend the M-Spec nur over the V-Spec II nur?

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Thx wrxhoon. Appreciate where you're coming from treading a similar path (WRX to GTR). re the suspension, that's why I'm looking to get a run in one before purchase.

Can I ask why you recommend the M-Spec nur over the V-Spec II nur?

Thats the top of the range , NUR M-Spec is the same as V-Spec II NUR with heated leather seats and heated external mirrors and the only other difference, M-Spec you could buy with an alloy bonnet or c/f bonnet at no extra cost , I must say almost all the M-Specs I have seen had alloy bonnets . As far as weight goes M-specs are 10-15 kg heavier, leather is heavier and the larger battery they have .

I didn't go from a WRX to GTR, I mostly own both at the same time, I don't have a WRX or STI now but I have a liberty GT, well it s smashed as of last Friday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...