Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone I am only new on the forum. I have a grey R32 skyline with a RB20DET manual. It goes ok but like everyone else i would like it to go faster. I would like to do the mods myself but if anyone knows of a good shop where i can go and get some parts from or if anyone can help me out with idea's that would be good. I dont mind spending some money as long as i get results.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19876-how-do-i-make-my-r32-faster/
Share on other sites

Here's what i would be doing if my skyline was stock:

3 inch exhaust from back of turbo

get a bleed valve and put boost up to 11psi

but if you wanna get a bit more serious (power over 180rwkw), then you'll have to part with the stocko turbo...then once you have a decent turbo (at least one from an RB25), then you have a reason to put on a front mount cooler...

Scott.

  • 11 months later...
faster??? need new pedals, body kit... big pssshhht bov oh and a five point harness and under car neons.

and don't forget heaps of stickers.

nah but seriously, cold air induction (can be done for almost free, there is a DIY on THE SKY IS THE LIMIT web site) is a great start, also If your car has big flashy rims (especially chromys) take them off sell them and get either some light weight rims or get some stockies!!!, you would be amased at the difference a set of light wheels make!!!!

then the normal stuff; zorst, bleed valve 11-12psi no more, then maybe spend some dollars on handeling, corners are alot more fun than straight road.

to be annyoying I'd say put an SR20 or RB25det in there..

the other thing is, why are you guys telling him to increase the boost to 11psi?

a stock RB20det runs 10psi..

what is 1psi going to do?

I'd say that if you got a 3 inch turbo back exhaust, pod filter or free flowing panel filter in the stock air box with better Cold air ducting to it, you will already be producing 11psi or just a bit more..

then do the stock bov mod where you block up the little bleed hole under it and you will have boost comming on harder and probably see about 12psi on your boost gauge on a cold night.

at that point, get a FMIC and boost controller and push another 2 psi through it until the turbo eventaully dies and then you ca replace it with something decent.

and what have we spend on POWER here?

$600 exhaust

$100 air filter

$1000 intercooler

$100 boost controller

almost $2000 and running about 160-170rwkw.

that should keep you happy for a while.

then do the stock bov mod where you block up the little bleed hole under it and you will have boost comming on harder and probably see about 12psi on your boost gauge on a cold night.

what is this mod??? never heard of it.

most r32's run about 7-8 psi as stock (I am pretty sure but not positive) mine runs a little higher about 3/4 or more up the stock boost gauge but i just figures it had been modded in Japan!

Bovs ????? lol NEWB!!!!

Um..... like what ever

it was 3 in the morning, did it look like i could be stuffed typing to suit your terms

Newb my ass your like what 15

Your 15 and you think you know everything about cars and giving everyone shit your an annoying little brat now go play with your matchbox cars.

So look you little ebie motherf***er if you aint got nothing nice to say then dont say nothing.

Cheers,

Have a nice nite.

Lads, if your posts aren't contributing to the thread, you're just whoring.

Anyway, R32's do run 10 psi stock. The stock cooler is pretty small, so getting a turbo-back or cat-back (if you're cheap) exhaust and a new 'cooler should give a decent performance boost. CAI or a pod filter is a gimme, and an EBC is probably a good option for the long run.

I would look at some cams, exhaust, power fc

Most people claim (so I hear anyway) the rb20 is laggy once on boost it is OK but until you go past 4000 there isn't much power. The cams, exhaust and ecu change should definetly give it a nice little jump in rwkw for both off and on boost. Something to consider

then do the stock bov mod where you block up the little bleed hole under it and you will have boost comming on harder and probably see about 12psi on your boost gauge on a cold night.

This is true. boost feels harder as you are not leaking boost at all..

For drag racing it is good. But if you wanna take it to track days then you will not have any transsition (spelling) from boost. Can feel very much like surge and is very hard to feather the throttle around corners

I would look at some cams, exhaust, power fc

Most people claim (so I hear anyway) the rb20 is laggy once on boost it is OK but until you go past 4000 there isn't much power.

With just basic mods, the boost comes on pretty early, and quite linearly; which is a good thing, IMO. But it doesn't truly make power until you get it into the mid-high rev range, so cams would probably be a good option. R32 GT-R cams are a popular option.

Here what i have done-

-Tanabe 3.25" Exhaust, turbo back

-Apexi Intake with coldair box/ scoop (can post a pic of set up if wanted)

-Apexi SAFC-II Fuel controller

-R33 RB25DET Turbo (spec1)

-EVO IV Front mount

-450cc Injectors (with link resistor pack)

-IMPUL ECU

-GTR Fuel pump any time now (only thing holding it back)

Along with handling mods. This hasnt cost me HEAPS because alot of the money is in labour, i sourced most parts and fitted my self, i made all the intercooler piping out of modified factory piping, which cost me nothing and you end up with good quality aluminuim piping, also fitted the intercooler/ turbo and air box. Saves Big$$$

This gets you over 200rwkw and a very fast car if you tune it right, obviuosly i didnt do it all at once. I upgraded the exhaust, then SAFC then turbo and cruised around like that for a while, you cant run much boost though till you do the fuel system to handle it, unless you like detonation!

I SMELL SOCK + WIDEBOI 2JZ = sock = WIDEBoi 2JZ.

Mate i don't go around making more than one SAU name, and personally i don't give a shit what you think, i am sock and no other username, so shut up and stop annoying everyone.

Hello everyone I am only new on the forum. I have a grey R32 skyline with a RB20DET manual. It goes ok but like everyone else i would like it to go faster. I would like to do the mods myself but if anyone knows of a good shop where i can go and get some parts from or if anyone can help me out with idea's that would be good. I dont mind spending some money as long as i get results.

Best to start of with a goal of how mch you are willing to spend - if its stock as a rock, I'd do the following

3" exhaust, with a nice big dump pipe - $800

bleed valve set to 1.0bar - $50

FMIC, these can be had really cheap now! - $1000

Bigger fuel pump - $300

Lightweight flywheel and decent clutch - $1000

Maybe a SAFC or re-chip stock ecu - should make around 160-170rwkw - $400

total of $3550

or RB25 turbo and make around 180rwkw add a extra $800 by the time its fitted

This should make for a fast car in a straight line

Add a set of decent shocks and springs, and it will handle better too, add another $1000

Will be very fun to drive with all of the above

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 馃槀 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
  • Create New...