Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These are all the track days I'm looking at next year. Wont do them all but there are plenty of options.

Potentially a busy year...

2008_Track_Day_Calendar.zip

Regards

Andrew

WOW!!

Look at all the PI days!!!

I'm excited...

sorry but i'm quite noob at this, thinking of joining the rest of the SAU members on the trackdays. Can anyone explain the different days.

i.e : Event held by Maserati? PIARC? AROCA?

Cheers

The different days are held by different car clubs and usually have a slightly different format.

As long as you have a L2S cams licence and a member of a cams affiliated club (e.g SAUVIC) you can attend any of these days..

The different days are held by different car clubs and usually have a slightly different format.

As long as you have a L2S cams licence and a member of a cams affiliated club (e.g SAUVIC) you can attend any of these days..

Thanks Jag. But main question was, what club are they? I know the WRX club and Maserati ones, how about the rest? :(

Thanks Jag. But main question was, what club are they? I know the WRX club and Maserati ones, how about the rest? :P

PIARC = Phillip Island Auto Racing Club

ARCOA = Alfa Romeo Clubs of Australia

MSCA = Marque Sports Car Association

:(

thanks for putting that calendar together Andrew, I was hoping you would make one like last year :devil:

With the amount of stuff you have been selling I thought you had pulled the pin and bought a white(maybe beige) camry automatic. :worship:

  • 2 months later...

Hey guys, I have 2x competitor passes to Historic Winton, presented by the Austin 7 Club.. it's on the 24 & 25 May and the passes are for both days...

Sat 24 - Practice 9am, Racing 1pm

Sun 25 - Racing all day from 9am

Any enquiries re Historic Winton can be directed to Noel Wilcox - bigboytoyco at bigpond.com or head to www.historicwinton.org

So anyway who wants the free passes? :D

Let me know,

Cheers!

~Kaz

Winton Raceway - Victoria

9th April - VicDrift Practice Day (Survival meeting)

12 & 13 April - Victorian Motor Racing Championship Round 2 (normally free spectator entry)

26th April - FPV & XR Owners Club Race Day (free spectator entry)

27th April - Tampered Motorsport Track Day (free spectator entry)

11th May - BP Midland Pedders No Bull Sprint Series Round 2 (free spectator entry)

24 & 25 May - Austin 7 Club - Historic Winton

14 & 15 June - Australian Motor Racing Championship Round 4

22nd June - Tampered Motorsport Track Day (free spectator entry)

12th July - Fun Day (free spectator entry)

13th July - BP Midland Pedders No Bull Sprint Series Round 3 (free spectator entry)

20th July - VicDrift State Series Round 3

1 to 3rd August- V8 Supercars Round 8

23-24th August - Victorian Motor Racing Championship Round 4 (normally free spectator entry)

6th September - VicDrift – Practice Day

7th September - BP Midland Pedders No Bull Sprint Series Round 4 (free spectator entry)

20 & 21st September - Performance Car Mania

28th September - Tampered Motorsport Track Day (free spectator entry)

Early October - Australian Historic Motor Festival

25th & 26th October -AROCA SIX HOUR RELAY (free spectator entry)

1 & 2nd November - Australian Motor Racing Championship Round 8

4th November - Tampered Motorsport Track Day – Melbourne Cup Holiday (free spectator entry)

15 & 16th November - Victorian Motor Racing Championship Round 6 (normally free spectator entry)

29th November (Twilight) - BP Midland Pedders No Bull Sprint Series Round 5 (free spectator entry)

6 & 7th December - Ken Leigh Memorial Holden HQ 4 Hour (normally free spectator entry)

14th December - Fun Day (free spectator entry)

20th December - Vicdrift Practice day, (Closed Practice Day)

Edited by Big Trev
  • 4 months later...
link to the calendar isn't working anymore??

got myself an R32 GT-R and an MA61 supra, keen to get them too the track...

It appears when the board moved to a new host, all the attachments died.

I'll upload another copy when I get home from work.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...