Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats a tight fit, but i reckon we'll do the same as that, why move the rad back for pushers? is there a benifit to running push over pull?

nah pull FTW, due to the conical shape of the fans and no condensor fitting the rad further back you would have heaps of room to front mount them, but i prefer pull type over push,

the only reason i mentioned it was to save cutting metal... only need to shorten rad hoses.

TRENT!!!! number... please!!!!!!!! lol

http://www.redlineauto.com.au/

im not sure what they can do price wise as i buy as a wholesaler on account.... they are the distributor and only qoute retail. You will usually find autobarn or repco are happy to talk deals.

I was told that if you are not using a greddy style intake manifold, then you will have a hard time clearing the rad due to the IC piping(if running a thicker rad), this piping could be changed however I went through three stock rads last year so this year I am buying a new alum rad and forward facing intake manifold.

The main problem I have is actually not the IC piping, but actually the crank/pulleys/PS pump/alternator/AC Compresser

I have a total of 53mm clearance from the PS pump and alternater, the slimmest fan I could find was the Davies Craig 12inch fan which is 51mm thick. Given that there's only 2mm of clearance, which I believe isn't safe.

yeah the twin 12" work fine, i also use a NISMO thermostat. As for switching i like to use the drift fan controller to engage two separate relays one for each fan and each relay runs a 50ish amp circuit breaker (avail any auto shop) so that in the case they over heat they dont shut down for good.... they will cool down and reset. i used a pivot fan controller originally but it was shit and caused the fans to stop working on more than one occasion.

i also use large gauge wiring as i found out after doing a strobe test on the fan speed that with the orginal wiring i used only ran the fans at 80% not at full speed... so spend the time on the 12v supply (i used audio 6awg) you should be laughing.

9510_2.jpg

would you mind doing a quick diagram of how you set it up? i bought one of those drift fan controllers you suggested and am using 2 12" sonic thermo fans.

when using large gauge wiring is that from battery to the fans only?

no need to change any of the wiring that came with the controller?

would you recommend using the nismo t/stat instead of a genuine nissan one also?

my car is only used for drift as well so no aircon etc

thanks very much

Simon is the box in yet? If so, how did you find the shifter to line up with the shifter hole in the S13 chasis? Any pics of this if possible?

Eventually il be putting a 25 in my 180....just waiting to get the motor back together at the moment!

It doesn't cause me any problems, well kinda 1, when I'm in 1st or 5th, the leather shift boot is really tight. Other than that no dramas!

I'm not too sure what cross member I'm using, but for the gearbox using the CA18DET one.

I bougth my car with the motor in it .. I only know how to wire up a RB into a S13.

The main problem I have is actually not the IC piping, but actually the crank/pulleys/PS pump/alternator/AC Compresser

I have a total of 53mm clearance from the PS pump and alternater, the slimmest fan I could find was the Davies Craig 12inch fan which is 51mm thick. Given that there's only 2mm of clearance, which I believe isn't safe.

Did you check out SPAL fans from PWR? I use one in mine, much thinnner and massive CFM increase over the davies craig

Did you check out SPAL fans from PWR? I use one in mine, much thinnner and massive CFM increase over the davies craig

I had a look at Spal fans, the thinness they have is 52mm but the air flow is crazy... not many people stock them in australia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...