Jump to content
SAU Community

Hitting The Track This Weekend For The First Time

mr_rbman

By mr_rbman,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

I'm heading out to my first circuit practice this weekend and i'm after a bit of advice.

I have an r32gtst with an rb30 twin cam making 254rwkw's @ 14psi.

The important things to note for the track is:

i have an aftermarket radiator

no oil cooler (purchasing one soon)

good street tires (getting semi slicks soon)

catch can made by myself (fully sealed with a little filter on top and x4 1/8th holes)

standard 4 spot brakes (am upgrading discs, fluid and pads after the track day) will do 1 hard and 1 cool down lap

i have a helmet, fire extinguisher and appropriate clothing

the car is being towed, not driven

A few bits of info i'm after is:

-i sometimes get oil leakage around my catch can, is this because the catch can is under so much pressure that its venting (note that i'm not getting heaps of oil in my catch can, 100ml max) should i drill some more holes to stop this?

-what tire pressure is recommended?

-due to the fact that i don't have an oil cooler or an oil temp guage is there a stock

-i have heaps of tools, what are the things i should make sure i take?

-i've heard you should put more oil in than normal but how much more?

Cheers!

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oil catch cans should have an inlet, and an outlet, the putlet either goes back to the intake air pipe or vents to atmo... without the outlet, the can will pressurise

tyre press for street tyres.. start with 34 psi and see how the car feels

oil temps - assuming your going to mallala, do 1 warm up lap, 2 flying laps, 1 cool down lap, then two flying laps, cool down, etc etc duntil the session is over.

tools - cable ties, race tape, socket set, side cutters, 1/4 drive socket set, hammer, plyars and some stainless steel cable ties, this is what i usually take. along with spare hoseclamps and assorted consumables, pays to take water and oil too.

you can overfil the sump by an extra half a L.

have fun!

Edited by Simon-R32
salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted (edited)

The track day is this Ssaturday, so I assume it's because he's run out of time.

Ash: What brake pads have you got? You really should go get something decent before going out there, or at least take a spare set, Mallala does go through pads a fair bit. Try get some Lucas pads, they're pretty decent and only cost around the $50 mark.

Take plenty of water to drink for yourself too, it's very draining...

Edited by salad
Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt be going on the track untill i had the oil cooler installed - the weather is far too hot to risk it at the moment!

Also get your braking sorted before going to the track!

maybe give this one a miss and be all ready for the next one!

have fun!

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Bleed the brakes, get some motul rbf600 fluid. check your pads have a reasonable amount of meat left. If they are a pure street pad you will chew through them pretty quickly. I go through a set of rears every 2 track days as i haven't gotten around to buying good ones yet. The fronts are still fine after 5 days as they are a better pad (project mu HC+).

I also run an extra .5L oil in my rb25. No oil surge issues to date.

Otherwise, just go out and have fun. see what the car is doing, then build from there if you are serious about chasing times.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Go out there, and take a few slow laps to learn the track.

Basically, use the first session to suss the track out, don't try and break the lap record, you'll just end in the kitty litter. So don't go flat out, nice and easy first session.

Come back in, think over what you know of the track now.

Go out. Rip it up.

Each time you come in, think over what you've learnt about the corners.

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers for all the replies guys.

I do hear what people are saying about the brakes and oil cooler but here is my reasoning for not doing it yet.

First and foremost i ran out of time as its this saturday. My brake pads still have plenty of meat and i figure seeing as its only practice sessions i don't have to be going flat out the whole time and therefore if i start to get brake fade i can just slow down. the oil cooler is really the same, i said to myself if it was going to be mid 30's or higher i wouldn't go out but its predicting 30 at the moment which i figure isn't too bad and my car should be able to stand up.

i've got a car trailer incase it doesn't and i figure that by not having my oil cooler, better brakes, better tires and camber arms that by the time the next track day comes around i will have all my mods done and will be used to the track/corners and the next one i will be able to go harder and see improvement from the mods done to my car.

This track day for me is basically just a suck it and see.

Cheers!

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The track day is this Ssaturday, so I assume it's because he's run out of time.

Ash: What brake pads have you got? You really should go get something decent before going out there, or at least take a spare set, Mallala does go through pads a fair bit. Try get some Lucas pads, they're pretty decent and only cost around the $50 mark.

Take plenty of water to drink for yourself too, it's very draining...

where you get these pads from and have u got a part number?

Cheers Showza!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • MBS206
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • Duncan
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...