Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm heading out to my first circuit practice this weekend and i'm after a bit of advice.

I have an r32gtst with an rb30 twin cam making 254rwkw's @ 14psi.

The important things to note for the track is:

i have an aftermarket radiator

no oil cooler (purchasing one soon)

good street tires (getting semi slicks soon)

catch can made by myself (fully sealed with a little filter on top and x4 1/8th holes)

standard 4 spot brakes (am upgrading discs, fluid and pads after the track day) will do 1 hard and 1 cool down lap

i have a helmet, fire extinguisher and appropriate clothing

the car is being towed, not driven

A few bits of info i'm after is:

-i sometimes get oil leakage around my catch can, is this because the catch can is under so much pressure that its venting (note that i'm not getting heaps of oil in my catch can, 100ml max) should i drill some more holes to stop this?

-what tire pressure is recommended?

-due to the fact that i don't have an oil cooler or an oil temp guage is there a stock

-i have heaps of tools, what are the things i should make sure i take?

-i've heard you should put more oil in than normal but how much more?

Cheers!

Oil catch cans should have an inlet, and an outlet, the putlet either goes back to the intake air pipe or vents to atmo... without the outlet, the can will pressurise

tyre press for street tyres.. start with 34 psi and see how the car feels

oil temps - assuming your going to mallala, do 1 warm up lap, 2 flying laps, 1 cool down lap, then two flying laps, cool down, etc etc duntil the session is over.

tools - cable ties, race tape, socket set, side cutters, 1/4 drive socket set, hammer, plyars and some stainless steel cable ties, this is what i usually take. along with spare hoseclamps and assorted consumables, pays to take water and oil too.

you can overfil the sump by an extra half a L.

have fun!

Edited by Simon-R32

The track day is this Ssaturday, so I assume it's because he's run out of time.

Ash: What brake pads have you got? You really should go get something decent before going out there, or at least take a spare set, Mallala does go through pads a fair bit. Try get some Lucas pads, they're pretty decent and only cost around the $50 mark.

Take plenty of water to drink for yourself too, it's very draining...

Edited by salad

I wouldnt be going on the track untill i had the oil cooler installed - the weather is far too hot to risk it at the moment!

Also get your braking sorted before going to the track!

maybe give this one a miss and be all ready for the next one!

have fun!

Bleed the brakes, get some motul rbf600 fluid. check your pads have a reasonable amount of meat left. If they are a pure street pad you will chew through them pretty quickly. I go through a set of rears every 2 track days as i haven't gotten around to buying good ones yet. The fronts are still fine after 5 days as they are a better pad (project mu HC+).

I also run an extra .5L oil in my rb25. No oil surge issues to date.

Otherwise, just go out and have fun. see what the car is doing, then build from there if you are serious about chasing times.

Go out there, and take a few slow laps to learn the track.

Basically, use the first session to suss the track out, don't try and break the lap record, you'll just end in the kitty litter. So don't go flat out, nice and easy first session.

Come back in, think over what you know of the track now.

Go out. Rip it up.

Each time you come in, think over what you've learnt about the corners.

Cheers for all the replies guys.

I do hear what people are saying about the brakes and oil cooler but here is my reasoning for not doing it yet.

First and foremost i ran out of time as its this saturday. My brake pads still have plenty of meat and i figure seeing as its only practice sessions i don't have to be going flat out the whole time and therefore if i start to get brake fade i can just slow down. the oil cooler is really the same, i said to myself if it was going to be mid 30's or higher i wouldn't go out but its predicting 30 at the moment which i figure isn't too bad and my car should be able to stand up.

i've got a car trailer incase it doesn't and i figure that by not having my oil cooler, better brakes, better tires and camber arms that by the time the next track day comes around i will have all my mods done and will be used to the track/corners and the next one i will be able to go harder and see improvement from the mods done to my car.

This track day for me is basically just a suck it and see.

Cheers!

The track day is this Ssaturday, so I assume it's because he's run out of time.

Ash: What brake pads have you got? You really should go get something decent before going out there, or at least take a spare set, Mallala does go through pads a fair bit. Try get some Lucas pads, they're pretty decent and only cost around the $50 mark.

Take plenty of water to drink for yourself too, it's very draining...

where you get these pads from and have u got a part number?

Cheers Showza!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...