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Mate just add a few sets to your workout or do some HIIT cardio. People will tell you that you can't out train a bad diet, but it's not a bad diet if the calorie outtake is there too. I eat a loaf of bread a day and still have abs ;)

It's possible to burn more then what you eat. Lots of anaerobic exercise i.e. HIIT and weight training which burn a f**k load of calories and afterwards as well.

I'm a fan of devouring bread with pb, rice and enormous amounts of meat, chicken and pork.

hardly have any pics. But If you like I can post of one currently now and maybe once I finish my cycle or 12-16 weeks later?

Sounds good. You generally don't see many of these because so many people doing cycles aren't too open about it or are quite vague.

In fact I've only really seen before and afters of a mate at uni who did a cycle as soon as he joined a gym. Mind you he ended up the same size as me after 8 weeks and I had been going for a couple of years back then lol

Sounds good. You generally don't see many of these because so many people doing cycles aren't too open about it or are quite vague.

In fact I've only really seen before and afters of a mate at uni who did a cycle as soon as he joined a gym. Mind you he ended up the same size as me after 8 weeks and I had been going for a couple of years back then lol

I admit it because I've broken the natural pathway. No point trying to act like I've achieved my results on protein powder, chicken and broccoli lol. Someone can blow up quite rapidly whilst on something. Scary part is after you stop. Having all the pct possible is the best thing possible. Still can't avoid the inevitable though...Just gotta train even harder!

I think these days you get more respect from those who don't cycle if you're more open about it. Most people don't have a problem with it beyond someone trying to pass themselves off as natty or talking about their routine and forgetting to include their extracurricular activities in it, and will still admire the impressive feats that are a well crafted body or a strong lift. We all know that whether you use or not has nothing to do with your intensity/willpower/effort; only the extent of the results achievable.

probably mentioned earlier, but what do you guys use to monitor your intake?

keep a diary? phone app? if so which one?

I use these apps called common sense and a pinch test :P

Ignore the retard talking in this vid.... the details of Bostin Loyd and his 1 year steroid adventure is available on the web somewhere..

He publicly listed every single drug he took, the amounts and timing and blah blah blah..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxpCFMzmPAc

Ignore the retard talking in this vid.... the details of Bostin Loyd and his 1 year steroid adventure is available on the web somewhere..

He publicly listed every single drug he took, the amounts and timing and blah blah blah..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxpCFMzmPAc

The gains he got over a year are awesome but he definitely wasnt small to begin with, just carrying a some extra fat.

I havent seen the video where he talks about everything he took, but i daresay he was on cycle year round which is pretty intense and thats probably got a lot to do with why he has managed to keep the gains.

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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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