Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nope, we modified the original. At the time there wasn't enough interest in GTRs to warrant the need to make a mould of it.

Oh u killed it hey lol.... just out of interest what was the original kit worth to buy?

Oh u killed it hey lol.... just out of interest what was the original kit worth to buy?

Arm + Leg + First Born :worship: , The kit itself is not that expensive (2K+) its the freight from overseas (3K+)

Arm + Leg + First Born :worship: , The kit itself is not that expensive (2K+) its the freight from overseas (3K+)

OUCH and that kills another dream lol. And its not easy finding a company that makes a copy... have searched around and so far have found.... zero!

I like the idea of a 1000hp GT-R looking as close to stock as poss'. Iron fist, velvet glove, and all that jazz. One would imagine someone who aims at a 1000hp GT-R has some sort of idea how it should turn out in the looks department.

Good luck, whatever kit you go with(cringes at thoughts of garish, tempe tyre pinup GT-Rs...). Personally, I want to see the dyno sheet of your car that actually says 1000hp...performance comes first! I hope you budgeted for BIG brakes...

Personally I like the stock GTR kit, especially series 3. Except the lower lip is way too overpriced.

I also like my kit as well >_<

Does anyone know what this kit is?

It looks a little like a 400R front bar without the N1 vents but the lower lip looks different.

Are the side-skirts 400R?

And its got rear pods too...

post-13527-1201771129_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1201771146_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1201771258_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1201771293_thumb.jpg

I like the idea of a 1000hp GT-R looking as close to stock as poss'. Iron fist, velvet glove, and all that jazz. One would imagine someone who aims at a 1000hp GT-R has some sort of idea how it should turn out in the looks department.

Good luck, whatever kit you go with(cringes at thoughts of garish, tempe tyre pinup GT-Rs...). Personally, I want to see the dyno sheet of your car that actually says 1000hp...performance comes first! I hope you budgeted for BIG brakes...

Brembo 6 pot fronts with 375mm discs and 4 pot rears with 340mm discs.

615kW @ 4 wheels @ 1.76 bar boost. (ported to the max)

  • 1 month later...

thats a real beuty cs student. after having rear bar kits on previous cars i am not a fan of them anymore.

but u just cant beat thos rear pods. they are agressive, and not too ricey.

cant beat that

* also go the top secret kit....freaking awesome

Edited by r33cruiser

What about the wisesports gt500 widebody kits for r33? a user on her by the name of GTN1K pretty much took out all the auto salons with the kit fitted to his white gtst, it was absolutely magnificent, i have seen aaaaaages a go a white r33 gtr for sale with the widebody kit on it.

the kit only looks good though with 19's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...