Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You want a stock turbo to come on boost earlier?? It comes on early enough IMO.

Pretty much any "flow" modifications will make the turbo spool up earlier. So in other words making intercooler piping as short as possible and as free flowing as possible will help. Changing an exhaust manifold to a better flowing one (this is usually only for high mount manifolds because your not going to get any gains for a stock manifold for a stock turbo). Then theres options such as aftermarket camshafts and then a good tune or a nitrous setup.

Thats pretty much it. Obviously on a bigger turbo you might notice a good difference in spool up time, but for small low mounts, theres probably not a huge gain that you will notice, maybe a few hundred RPM with something like cams.

Hope that helps.

Just realised, what car are we talking about here? Or just talking turbo cars in general?

Edited by PM-R33

aggressive tuning

anti lag kit

ride the clutch

variable nozzle / vane technology

bigger cams with lots of overlap (?maybe?)

manfiold changes

porting of the manifold

split pulse manifold setup and split pulse turbocharger housing

You want a stock turbo to come on boost earlier?? It comes on early enough IMO.

Pretty much any "flow" modifications will make the turbo spool up earlier. So in other words making intercooler piping as short as possible and as free flowing as possible will help. Changing an exhaust manifold to a better flowing one (this is usually only for high mount manifolds because your not going to get any gains for a stock manifold for a stock turbo). Then theres options such as aftermarket camshafts and then a good tune or a nitrous setup.

Thats pretty much it. Obviously on a bigger turbo you might notice a good difference in spool up time, but for small low mounts, theres probably not a huge gain that you will notice, maybe a few hundred RPM with something like cams.

Hope that helps.

Just realised, what car are we talking about here? Or just talking turbo cars in general?

Any cars in general - but i suppose im thinking along the lines of RB20DET / SR20DET... I just really like a more linear power delivery.... but also like the bang for your buck performance of turbo... kinda wanting to best of both worlds...

Superchargers are expensive... And so is N/A tuning to get the same gains as slapping a turbo on.

Always the way, i posted a very similar post 2 mins before yours!

Stock RB20Det's don't have much torque so their lag is more obvious. Have to rev them out to feel fast or do something with turbo/engine capacity.

Stock SR20Det's are good for response especially s14/15 versions... full boost low 3000rpm is great. Won't improve much on that.

I just went through this on my Rb26. Be careful to get sidetracked by the hype and affect of some mods. Eg Manifolds & Cams in a moderately upgraded setup did very little for me. Some people remove higher volume manifolds on small turbo setups because you can increase in lag.

Edited by wegs
in fact some remove high volume manifolds on small turbo setups because you can increase in lag.

yeah air speed needs to be considered on smaller stuff. So porting and cams and bigger anything can often lead to results going in the opposite direction.

Shoot me if this is OT but it is related .

Where you can make some gain is attempting to get a bit more low speed low/no boost torque . Easy mods can be better/best filter elements and free flowing exhaust systems .

On bog stock cars going up a level of SMIC can't hurt ie R33 or R34 SMIC on R32's .

When you can control fueling and timing (ie PFC) it can be optimised around best part throttle torque .

With the turbos themselves if you had to use a bog stock one maybe a little smoothing in the housings but the gains are probably small .

Twin scroll systems are very dooable but mostly very expensive . Trying to find a TS turbine housing that is IW is virtually impossible to suit the std manifold ATM .

I've been getting interested in Evo Lancers and even wonder if their std TS turbos (or Hi Flow versions) could be grafted onto an RB 6 . The problems are that those turbos are reverse rotation and use a unique mounting flange , they are also plain bearing which goes against the grain .

I'd be trying the easy things first and screwing as much light load advance into your car as you possibly can .

Cheers A .

I found the extra litre of capacity helped spooling :banana:

Hahah yeah that would help :angry:

Out of curiousity how much earlier does an extra 0.5 litre do for spool up time? Like is it 500-1000rpm earlier? Obviously a huge amount of factors alter the result but just a rough idea would be cool. Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...