Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

Bump! I got my coolant flushed recently because of possible corrosion. The place that did it said that the old coolant was probably just dirty and that there wasn't any rust in the radiator. Last time I go there because a few weeks later after checking if it needed a top up the cap had all this brown rust-like crap all over it. I was thinking of getting a new radiator with my tax return, would I need new hoses as well? Also what would be the rough price I'd be looking at.

Any recommendations of places in Perth (NOR) would be great too. Really wanted to spend my tax return on something other than the car, already spent too much on it!

I did mine.. (haha this is my topic.!!)

I bought a dual alloy radiator of SAU group by... cant remember how much.. roughly 400 from memory.

I did replace my hoses... these can be sourced from the sponsors on SAU. They are approx $70 + postage. The reason why i changed my hoses was because it was only an extra 70$ and then i know they are new. =)

Flushing the engine is important not just the radiator. When you replace your radiator, once the old one is out, simply pull off the heater hose, and put a garden hose up it, and flush out all that old stuff.

Bolt in the new radiator/hoses. And fill her up with the new coolant ~ 8litres (buy 10 to be safe)

Dont forget to bleed the system, Dont worry too much about this.. as long as you get a decent amount in there, it wil bleed it self out over the next few days... just keep topping up the overflow bottle until it has stablised... as it well keep going down as the air lets it self out and sucks in more coolant.

Overall took me about a day to do it. Started roughly 10am finshed 5pm... but thats me mucking around... taking my time and having a few drinks.

so the things i did

1)changed radiator

2)Changed hoses

3)Full engine coolant flush

4)replaced coolant with Techloy 100 (around 8 litres from memory)

Hope this helps! =D

Here a pic of my "smick" engine bay with alloy radiator =)

IMG_9086.jpgIMG_9087.jpg

Edited by br3ndan
  • 5 years later...

is the method and drain plug location for a 34 gtt the same as 33?

if so, do you have any photos of the process? I "had" a coolant leak somewhere, as whenever i drove the car out of the garage i saw a small pool of green lol. Everytime i topped up the overflow, it went empty in a few days and i dont know where it went.

Opening my engine bay, i see something has splashed around and left white splash marks around the place, around the radiator included.

So i wish to change out my radiator to a new one, and flush my cooling system too.

Make sure you flush the cooling system with the old radiator in place as you dont want to stir up sediment in the block and end up blocking the tubes on the new radiator

So are the drain plugs on both the radiator and the engine block easy to find and reach? Also, is it in the same position for the 34 as it is for the 33?

I've heard that the 34 drain plug is a biatch to get to?

Make sure you flush the cooling system with the old radiator in place as you dont want to stir up sediment in the block and end up blocking the tubes on the new radiator

Can't you flush it with no radiator in there? That way you don't risk putting any old dirty shit in from the other end.

Also the bleed method you guys described isn't thorough. Air in your cooling system has potential to raise temps which is not good.

To bleed correctly, fill the rad with water, start the engine and was the coolant drops, top it up. While its running and not up to temp yet there is a small screw to the right of the throttle body. This is the bleed valve. It is the highest point in the water cooling system in your car. Any air in your car will rise by law of physics. You release this valve(its just a 10mm nut), NOT ALL THE WAY just enough so its open and you will hear air hissing out sometimes. When the engine starts coming up to temp, the whole system will build pressure and it will rapidly start spitting coolant and blowing bubbles. When the bubbles stop and all you see is the system pissing out coolant, tighten it up and ensure during the whole process you were topping up coolant as necessary. I repeat this a couple times. At all times during the bleeding process ensure your heater is on to max heat and operating. Monitor your temps for the next few days and make sure they're within normal range. DO NOT OPEN THIS VALVE WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. There is a warning on the valve saying this.

Just check the bottom left or right corner of the radiator the plug should be there. If you're changing your radiator just drop the whole radiator and shove a hose in the top feeder hole and it will all drain out through the bottom.

Edited by SargeRX8
  • Like 1

So are the drain plugs on both the radiator and the engine block easy to find and reach? Also, is it in the same position for the 34 as it is for the 33?

I've heard that the 34 drain plug is a biatch to get to?

yes both of the valves are on the top of the engine, one is at the back near the AAC valve and the other is near the front of the engine (both have "DO NOT TOUCH WHEN HOT on/near them so should be pretty obvious). the 34 drain plug is NOT a biatch to get to, it is a very nice easy girl, just simply stick your head under your mud tray directly under the passenger side of the radiator (left) and you will see a hole, shine a torch up that hole you will see the plug, use a screwdriver to let her loose!

and if you're still not sure have a good search around here because there are threads with pictures (for the r33 but same thing for 34).

The r34 drain plug is a biatch to get to (the one sudwidji asked about)as its behind the exhaust side of the block and its easy to round off the plug as it is short and hugs the block

The r34 drain plug is a biatch to get to (the one sudwidji asked about)as its behind the exhaust side of the block and its easy to round off the plug as it is short and hugs the block

are we talking about the drain plugs which you undo to release the air after putting in the new coolant?

Theres one at the front and one at the back of the inlet manifold. The one at the back is part of the alluminium casting, the front one is part of some hard pipework .(the manifold you mentioned) and just noticed it was mentioned a few posts ago :)

Edited by superben

are we talking about the drain plugs which you undo to release the air after putting in the new coolant?

Nup, the one im refering too is only removed when

You are draining/flushing the block, if you have sausage fingers like me then you will have "fun" removing and replacing the plug

Two up top? I thought there was only one on a little manifold?

The Block drain is on the exhaust side as has already been said, just below where the coolant feed for the turbo comes out

I thought there was only one too, until I read it in this thread, but I can't check as I've only a RB20

Nup, the one im refering too is only removed when

You are draining/flushing the block, if you have sausage fingers like me then you will have "fun" removing and replacing the plug

ah i see. i also have sausage fingers, and i had no idea there was another plug...fark.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...