Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

I recently have spun a big end bearing and i just want to know how to help prevent it from happening again.

These were the mods when it happened:-

ACL race bearings

N1 oil pump

blueprinted bottom end

Castrol 5w-30

Is there anything i should do or is it just bad luck/motor not put together probably

cheers Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206613-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Getting a baffled sump will only help with keeping your oil cooler (but upgrading to an aftermarket sump will generally mean higher capacity which is a good thing) and your problem has stemmed from lack of oil.

The simple fix is to overfill your oil 500ml - 1L above the full marker but this is generally just a precaution for track going vehicles.

considering your car is street only id be wondering if there was some sort of blockage or your oil pump failure. This really shouldn't occur on a street only car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206613-r33-gtr/#findComment-3655137
Share on other sites

Getting a baffled sump will only help with keeping your oil cooler (but upgrading to an aftermarket sump will generally mean higher capacity which is a good thing) and your problem has stemmed from lack of oil.

The simple fix is to overfill your oil 500ml - 1L above the full marker but this is generally just a precaution for track going vehicles.

considering your car is street only id be wondering if there was some sort of blockage or your oil pump failure. This really shouldn't occur on a street only car.

Sorry, but you have missed the point of having a baffled sump - The point of the baffles isn't to keep your oil cooler, but rather to prevent oil starvation under hard cornering/load, which is particularly common at the track.

Ideally, anyone building an engine should be at a minimum fitting sump baffles, a good quality oil cooler, and an upper oil gallery restrictor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206613-r33-gtr/#findComment-3655278
Share on other sites

what oil should i be using to help prevent this happening again??? also would keeping the oil cooler help. what temperature should it be at??

Yes, keeping the oil cool is a priority.

Which oil you choose depends on your engine and its condition.

If the oil gets too hot, it gets too thin and you will run the risk of spinning a bearing again.

Personally I run Motul 300V Chrono, however given that my GTR takes 10 litres per change with my larger sump and cooler setup, it makes for expensive oil changes!

An oil cooler really is a must have on a modified GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206613-r33-gtr/#findComment-3655326
Share on other sites

IMO - Baffles - waste of money as its only fixing another problem indirectly.

For a street GTR, with the RIGHT head modifications to stop the oil starvation in the first place... negates the need for a sump.

Heavily tracked GTR's here (350rwkw style) ran stock sumps without problem, so can you for a street car :)

Read the FI Guide (its a sticky), and in there it contains a link for Oil Control in RB's.

If you get that right, and have it rebuilt correctly, there is no reason it should die.

I would say your motor either wasn't assembled correctly or you ran low on oil at some point possibly. Likely bet is motor assembly.

Castrol 10/60 is what i would be using in a built motor personally, been run in all of mine for the past 4 years, no issues

5/30 is probably part of the issue

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206613-r33-gtr/#findComment-3655372
Share on other sites

what power are you putting out?? what rods are you using? what rod bolts/studs are you using??

pushing big hp on stock rod bolts "can" stretch and lead to big end failures, although oil control problem are common in gtr's as stated

A spun bigend on a 20k km built engine driven on the street = something very very wrong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206613-r33-gtr/#findComment-3655410
Share on other sites

Detonation/pre-ignition is probably the biggest killer of conrod bearings on GTR's when the boost is wound up. Most of the time you'll find there's no oil pump problem etc.. Have a look at the other conrod bearings, if they have marking on the upper bearing from 10 thru 1 o-clock it's usually a good sign of detonation. It happens because the mixture fires too early and the piston is pushed back down the bore while the crank is still trying to push it up, this squeezes out the oil film and you have metal on metal contact between the crank journal and the bearing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206613-r33-gtr/#findComment-3655710
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...