Jump to content
SAU Community

Mine's Gt-r Breaks Into The 59's At Tsukuba


Recommended Posts

Well apart from the M3 CSL I don't think any cars come with tyres quite as "factory issue" as the GT-R's :)

Once someone really goes to town on an R35 I am waiting for the first sub-50 second lap ;)

Well apart from the M3 CSL I don't think any cars come with tyres quite as "factory issue" as the GT-R's :)

Once someone really goes to town on an R35 I am waiting for the first sub-50 second lap ;)

I'd love to see them try, is'nt the record like 50 secs flat set by the GT500 ARTA NSX driven by keichi tsuchiya?

Well apart from the M3 CSL I don't think any cars come with tyres quite as "factory issue" as the GT-R's :)

Once someone really goes to town on an R35 I am waiting for the first sub-50 second lap :D

Im sure when you said "goes to town" you really meant "empties their bank accounts into the car" ;)

Well apart from the M3 CSL I don't think any cars come with tyres quite as "factory issue" as the GT-R's :yes:

Once someone really goes to town on an R35 I am waiting for the first sub-50 second lap :D

RE070's are standard on STi's as well.. Not as wide though.

The RE070's are proving to be a problem re track times with a swap to Dunlops proving a second quicker at least around Fuji and Aida.

my point was the time attack cars would most definitely not be using RE70s (which are street tyres). They would all be using track tyres like RE55s or A048s etc.

my point was the time attack cars would most definitely not be using RE70s (which are street tyres). They would all be using track tyres like RE55s or A048s etc.

What time attack cars? The GT-Rs are all running OEM tyres at the moment. Bridgestone RE070 and Dunlop SP Sport 600 DSST which are both options.

Both are run flats too.

edit: i'm beginning to think you weren't referring to me in your post lol...

lol, yeah kind of. sorry, I wasn't too clear. I meant people were talking about the mines R34 comparison etc. No way does that thing run RE70s. don't get my wrong they are a good tyre by all acounts, and the dunlops even a touch better, but they are still 'performance road' tyres. and decent semi slicks would be abother second easy even at a short track like tsukuba. :P yeah reading back my reply was really for laurence. :D

Well apart from the M3 CSL I don't think any cars come with tyres quite as "factory issue" as the GT-R's :D

Once someone really goes to town on an R35 I am waiting for the first sub-50 second lap :P

i think it will take something EXTREMELY special to get the r35 to a sub 50 second lap. the current outright lap is 51.8, so to shave 2 seconds of that is going to be extremely hard. going from 1.01 to 59 didn't take that much, but it will take a lot more to get it down to 57, then much more again to get it to 55, and a massive amount to get it to 50 or below.

i think it will take something EXTREMELY special to get the r35 to a sub 50 second lap.
I think it took someone EXTREMELY special to take that comment literally. Thanks for being that person. :(
:D
Try and keep an eye out for these little yellow things, maybe read this page too http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emoticon

The point is, once people crack the GT-R and start to get serious modifying it we are going to see some pretty impressive times. All of which will be above 50 seconds.

Edited by Laurence
I think it took someone EXTREMELY special to take that comment literally. Thanks for being that person. :D

Try and keep an eye out for these little yellow things, maybe read this page too http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emoticon

The point is, once people crack the GT-R and start to get serious modifying it we are going to see some pretty impressive times. All of which will be above 50 seconds.

lol, I think I must be the only person who knew you were joking... :O

lol, sub 50....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
×
×
  • Create New...