Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I'm about to do my first track-day with driver dynamics and I am not too sure about my brake pads on my R33 GTR.

Currently the rear pads are pretty worn in and I have no idea what brake pads its been running since it came from Japan.

It has been advised that I should get some track-day pads for this like: HAWK HT-10, and change the fluid over on the brake's.

It might be a good opportunity to put in the Aus. braided brake lines and remove the Japanese ones too :rofl:

EDIT: found recommended pads sticky, I'm considering the QFM A1.RM.

Should I buy a dedicated track-day pad that I put on and use for track days only? And then remove afterwards again?

Do track-pads need to be bedded in before use? Or can I just use them on the day?

Also do I get some standard DOT4 brake fluid?

I'm not going to be attending track days that often but I don't want to end up into a wall at Sandown because of brake fade.

The brakes appear to be standard with a larger front rotor (I think).

Thanks,

Gareth

Ive always used benedicts ultimates for street and track and never had issues, just alot of brake dust. Had brake fade because the standard fluid boiled. Now have some good dot 5 and havent had an issue.

If your not doing track days all the time, some benedicts, ferodo or similar will be good enough and decent for the pricing.

braided lines will help, but change the pads and the lines first, then bleed brakes and put the dot 5 in :(

If you're willing to swap pads out before a track day and pop your streeters back in afterwards, then do so. It'll cost you less in the long run if you do enough track days to justify it.

Street pads tend to overheat and break down really quickly on the track, killing their life, and track pads are expensive to just commute on and tend to have bad feel and squeal when cold, require activation heat to start working, and cost more.

If you're willing to go as far as working on the brakes, its also quite easy to replace your rotors at the same time so I'd suggest running track rotors too.

Project Mu type NR pads ive found are good for a run around the track.Rated to 850 deg C.

For every day driving i use Project Mu B spec pads.

EDIT:No im not a rep for Project Mu :)

EDIT: found recommended pads sticky, I'm considering the QFM A1.RM.

Yep, they would be the go! They're VERY similar to Race Brakes RB74, they're still useable on the street, whilst good for 780 degrees, which is more than enough for most track days. And cheap at $110 per set.

Also do I get some standard DOT4 brake fluid?

Depends on how much you want to spend and how serious you want to be. Regularly changed Dot 4 fluid should be fine, or else this is what we use and recommends for high performance applications:

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/gsl-ra...rake-fluid.html

If you're running street tyres you should be able to get away with a decent set of street/track pads, IE DS2500 or those QFMs....

If you're running semis then i'd suggest running track pads for trackdays. IE DS3000 or Hawk HT10 etc...

As for fluid, Get some of that Motul RBF600 (5.1), it's cheap enough to use, about 25 bucks at a motorbike store

Thanks for the info, I will have a look around at getting some QFM A1.RM pads or similar. The GTR is running the standard brembo's does anyone know the normal price for these?

There is a groupbuy going on somewhere on here, about $110 a set - bloody cheap!

Depends if he's got the Nissan or Brembo Brakes. If its the Brembo's, then they're $145 a set, and won't be available through the Group Buy as they're exclusive to GSL RallySport...

Also $110-$120 is pretty standard for the A1RM, I really don't know why that's a group buy thread as their isn't any discount for quantities and its not being done like a group buy.

lol as long as you dont go for the PMU D1 pads lol alot of good pads out there but find something with a large heatrange to cover street and track work :(

  • 2 weeks later...

now i've got some conflicting info here.

A1RM = 580 degrees, at the MOST!

Source = guy who developed the pads

He said the A1RM's are NO WHERE NEAR 780 degree's. And considering QFM doesn't have a website, and development as has stopped, i don't know how to check this. And given the price of A1RM's vs RB74's (bout $150 front OR rear, near'ish $300 total) it would explain why the A1RM's are a lot cheaper.

yet, everywhere i google, it comes up with A1RM=780 degree's???? sooooo confused..... the dude who made them, and everyone selling them.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...