Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you want fun and are prepared to spend a fair bit on ongoing maintenance, get the 32 GTR. If you want a new, smooth, reliable daily get the 34 GTT.

I was faced with the same choice and even though the 32 GTR has been a dream car for years, I went the 33. The last car I had was 15 years old and I was sick of replacing bits so the newness factor won out.

person in my office selling r32..but its in bankstown dnt know this guy personally but looks like bargain for r32 gtr

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...0&trecs=364

mate that thing sold for 18k

Buy a GTR for 20k, drive it for a few months, then put wheels on it and maybe exhaust, the motor then breaks and you've got to rebuild an RB26, then here comes a nice fat bill which will blow your 30k budget right out of the water

but you don't

you buy a fully rebuilt 32 for $30K that already has every mod you could ever want, and then live happily ever after

...and then live happily ever after

surely if you have ever owned any car, you would know that this ideal never happens

you have to factor in the kind of repairs that an "average" example of the car you're buying would need, and then decide if you can afford it

Totally agree mate. But we can't EXPECT his motor to die. It's safer to assume it needs a rebuild, especially seeing as a new owner will be excitedly thrashing about, but the turbos will be on their last legs for sure.

If you want comfy, cleaner and hassle free daily driving get the GTT (i would). But if you are serious on performance and don't mind refurbishing the GTR (which would make it nicer to own anyway), even rebuilding the motor just to be safe, then fork out $20k and set aside another $10k for renovation on the GTR.

Both choices have their merits. You decide.

With that budget a GTR just isnt going to heppen if the motor has problems, or if it say, starts breaking cv joints, or the gearbox dies, or if it needs a new clutch etc

hey comming from a 93 180sx with light mods which is a similar age to the 32 gtr it is a dream to drive a 34 smooth and no rattles. my 2c

Hahahahaha, i hope you were drunk when you posted that :laugh:

hey guys (and girls), im looking at buying a skyline but not sure if i want a r32gtr or r34 gtt(manual, turbo, coupe), i know the gtr will have more power but they are pretty old now and im thinking r34 would be more reliable and just newer, iv got bout 25 to 30 grand to spend, any suggestions.

Hi Charlie,

I'm 59 years old (nearly as old as Jim Richards), and I've owned both an R33 GTR and currently an R34 GTR. I've also organised GTR/GTST/GTT drive days and have plusses and minuses that you might like to play with. I've owned about 20 cars in my 40 years of driving incl. BMWs, Alfetta GTV, Datsuns (starting with a new 1600)

Lets assume that you're getting a manual with turbo coupe.

The plus side of an R34 GTT is that i) they're new with less Kms ii) they have an in your face styling iii) this is the model that won the NZ Targa in 2007 and 2006 beating Porsches/Stis/EVOs/V8s iv) turbo wear is likely to be less than an older GTR v) suspension/bushes/boots/gear box wear will probably be less vi) brakes are better than what's standard on an R32 GTR

The minus side of an R34 GTT is that i) depreciation will be more than a good GTR whether it's an R33 or R32 ii) it won't corner as well as a GTR

The plus side of an R32 GTR is that providing you have one in mind with a complete service history since its arrival in Aust, and it has low Kms as proven by a raft of what's shown on past pink slips over the years (since the odometer can be tampered with) (and don't trust my 58 year old honest face) i) it has as I said a really low depreciation in value) ii) its dynamics and behaviour on the road is superior (except for its braking ability) iii) it turns more heads iv) if its been looked after, it'll look after you better over time v) it's a classic car and classic cars will always be remembered the longest - they've even made a dvd on Bathurst 1991/1992

The minus side of an R32 GTR is i) the brakes are worth upgrading ii) check with a specialist Skyline workshop and pay him to look the car over for MVA damage, wear and tear, leaks, sticky sensors, turbo play unless you're willing to risk it. An Aussie landed R32 GTR will cost too much but...

Also consider if you want to carry 4 people in comfort the only GTR that can do this and still fit your budget is a low Km R33 GTR! A survey has been done on looks of the 3 GTRs so far made (not including the R35), and the R34 and R32 GTRs rated about 33 and 38%. But when the 29% poor brother R33 GTR was considered on the basis that one had to pretend that the GTST had never existed, the R33 GTR style jumped by up by 4% to 33%.

Anyway you pick between the 3 or 2 of them, you'll thoroughly enjoy the experience - welcome to the club!!!

i know the gtr will have more power but they are pretty old now and im thinking r34 would be more reliable and just newer
That gotta be the best reason why he should choose the GTT over the GTR. Factory power is the same.

Was just correcting him....

I originally wanted a 32 GTR, but went for a 34GTT for the reasons outlined here many times over.

I must say in general terms the GTT is a more comfortable car to be in for 'normal' driving at least.

I'm still thinking about buying a 32 GTR - but to take my time restoring it from the ground up, and in the way I want it to be. In the meantime, I have the GTT to enjoy... I think this is the best solution for me anyway :)

i know the 'claimed' factory power is the same but surely the gtr would have more than the gt-t, didn't they have some sort of agreement in japan that limits the power(on paper) to 206kw, not sure its just what i've heard

I think the GTR has more torque???...... but as we all know torque and power aren't the same thing, and noone mentioned torque :nyaanyaa:

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...