Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats Better

GT-R FREAk
 Share

Recommended Posts

lingeringsoul Grand Master

lingeringsoul

Posted
Posted

well...when you are rich, you get the most expensive one out of the list. You pay the most expensive brand of turbo and mods. "which is better in price and performance" should not be in your vocabulary. "I'll take which ever gives me the best performance" would be the only sentence you need when you are rich.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3712888
Share on other sites
Greekos Proficient

Greekos

Posted
Posted
hi im amjad and i want to buy a skyline when im rich which one is better in Price and Performance and how much they approxmatly cost in AUS.

GT-R r34 V-spec I

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur

even better why wait till your rich, why not buy one of these R/C GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur :whistling:

4533.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3713085
Share on other sites
1C3B3RG Rising Star

1C3B3RG

Posted
Posted
hi im amjad and i want to buy a skyline when im rich which one is better in Price and Performance and how much they approxmatly cost in AUS.

GT-R r34 V-spec I

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur

Hey dude, these guys are just havin fun. You obviously have access to the internet. Do the research yourself. The link below will start you on your journey, maybe motivate you when you become rich. Also, when you buy a Skyline you will stop being rich very soon. It is an expensive business running one. It is however very rewarding. Good luck.

http://www.j-spec.com.au/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3714664
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
hi im amjad and i want to buy a skyline when im rich which one is better in Price and Performance and how much they approxmatly cost in AUS.

GT-R r34 V-spec I

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur

GT-R R34 V-Spec I

The V-spec model also had firmer suspension, lower ground clearance, a plastic front air diffuser (covering the underside of the engine) and a rear carbon fiber air diffuser, designed to keep air flowing smoothly under the car.

GT-R R34 V-Spec II

The V-Spec II has increased stiffness in the suspension (even stiffer than the original V-spec). It also comes equipped with a carbon fiber hood, which is lighter than the aluminum that all other GT-R hoods are made from. Also different on the V-Spec II is the darker color of the center console in the interior. The seats were also made with black cloth, rather than the gray cloth used on other R34 GT-R models. From this point, the standard trim level GT-R also received the new black seats.

GT-R R34 V-Spec II Nur

The Nür was named after the famous German Nürburgring racetrack, where the Skyline was developed. The Nür model featured an improved RB26DETT based on the N1 racing engine, used by Nismo in Motorsports. The V-spec II Nür is based on the regular V-spec II model, and the M-spec Nür was based on the regular M-spec model. Other than the addition of the Nür engine, the Nür models also included a different color of stitching on the interior trim, as well as a speedometer reading up to 300 km/h (186 mph).

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skyline_gtr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3715762
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...