Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Better match for the 3L IMO.

Better match for the 3litre than what options? I'm not solid on the HKS equivalents for those power levels these days, reckon there are lots of good units out there. One of the cooler new beasties to hit the market I reckon is the Forced Performance GT3794HTA... though if you want something physically big and aren't shy to pay the bling (as buying the HKS T51R would imply) I'd really look at the new Garrett GTX4294Rs. How awesome would that be? ;)

Looking for something around the 800hp mark with a bit of response.

Looked at so far:

HKS T51R KAI

Turbonetics Hurricane (Benita) BB

Precision PT6765SP Billet BB

There is a fairly big price difference between the HKS turbo and the other two. But the T51R has the turbo whine that im after. ;)

Looked at so far:

HKS T51R KAI

Turbonetics Hurricane (Benita) BB

Precision PT6765SP Billet BB

There is a fairly big price difference between the HKS turbo and the other two. But the T51R has the turbo whine that im after. :P

Turbine whine is easy to sort out, just get anything which a decent antisurge setup ;) The GT3794HTA and the Garrett GTX4294HTA both have antisurge housings but are actually a little quiet probably due to the compressor design, PT6765 are also pretty quiet and the 3794HTA make more power - fwiw.

Borg Warner S300SX 91/79 could be fun as well - the Borgs are cheap and pretty tough and rowdy :banana:

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=202668

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_i...666ef2968f3d4b1

The BW 366XL looks the goods but they are only oil cooled and journal bearing.

Do they make water cooled BB?

I wouldn't get too wound up about ball bearing vs plain bearing, there are quite a few journal bearing turbo combinations out there which give the BB Garretts a run for their money.... pay attention to the reliability/performance/owners comments of turbo combinations instead of what the marketing say. In terms of non-water cooling, what are you intending on using it for?

A bit of everything really. Powerful enough to put down a decent time but responsive enough to give the circuit ago.

This Supra seems to be fairly responsive with 760hp. And a circuit car too.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...