Jump to content
SAU Community

Nytsky's Engine Build

NYTSKY

By NYTSKY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

perhaps spacing it out so the starter isnt over shooting the flywheel and installing the backing plate so its located and aligned properly and not gringing on the flywheel but engaging the ring gear..

just ask yourself. what different to when it was running last? just the plate?

  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

NYTSKY
NYTSKY
SimonR32
SimonR32

Unless you have a GTR

NYTSKY
NYTSKY

Testing out the tyres.

Posted Images

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
perhaps spacing it out so the starter isnt over shooting the flywheel and installing the backing plate so its located and aligned properly and not gringing on the flywheel but engaging the ring gear..

just ask yourself. what different to when it was running last? just the plate?

I just spaced out the started with a 2mm spacer and still the same :laugh: I dont get it, nothing else has changed.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No Duncan i didnt. I threw in the towel before i threw my engine crane through the windscreen.

Ill get back on it in the morning.

EDIT: Duncan there is $100 in it for you if you can get my car started :laugh:

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

haha you'd be better off with someone who knows what they are doing lol. i understand the pain when you go to start it and it doesn't fire though - my last one was fuel pressure problem.

the only time I had a "starter motor problem" we pulled it out and put 12v directly on the motor. didn't it jump out of my hands lol. turned out the signal wire to the solenoid wasn't on properly. By putting a definate 12v source to the solenoid you can tell if the starter is farked or not, but it would be pretty damn unlucky to have 2 dead ones. or alternatively check for 12v at the solenoid signal when you turn the key to start. also...do you have 12v at the main starter power source?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

sorry cancel all that you said the starter was turning right? if so its only how the starter engages the wheel. so go back to putting 12v on the starter while it is out and make sure the starter gear clicks out properly to engage the flywheel

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
haha you'd be better off with someone who knows what they are doing lol. i understand the pain when you go to start it and it doesn't fire though - my last one was fuel pressure problem.

the only time I had a "starter motor problem" we pulled it out and put 12v directly on the motor. didn't it jump out of my hands lol. turned out the signal wire to the solenoid wasn't on properly. By putting a definate 12v source to the solenoid you can tell if the starter is farked or not, but it would be pretty damn unlucky to have 2 dead ones. or alternatively check for 12v at the solenoid signal when you turn the key to start. also...do you have 12v at the main starter power source?

I unbolted the starter and got my brother to crank it. The thing certainly does jump! From what i could see the gear spun but the solenoid did not pop out. So i think the signal to the solenoid is the issue.

Ill have a better look at it in the morning.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
so you ran the motor before without the plate? either the main power wires on the starter are backwards or its an alignment issue

I dont see how they can be backwards, there is only one spot for the power. The other is the earth.

Just to confirm, the spade connector with the black plug on it is the????

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
spade is the start signal. should show 12v when you turn the key to start

. it is earthed thru the bellhousing.

does the motor turn with a socket on the balancer?

Ah ok.

Yes motor cranks by hand.

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Could the static be giving trouble on the starter? Best thing would be to measure the voltage on the 12V lead going to the starter to ensure that it is getting enough for a healthy crank. Is the tumble of the starter sounding good, it may be as simple as putting a relay to up the power the starter is seeing?

Edited by TriniGT
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
Could the static be giving trouble on the starter? Best thing would be to measure the voltage on the 12V lead going to the starter to ensure that it is getting enough for a healthy crank. Is the tumble of the starter sounding good, it may be as simple as putting a relay to up the power the starter is seeing?

please explain more, i have a bit of a start issue with mine.. it clicks sometimes and wont start.. if i keep trying to start it it starts.. weird...

It started...and he's driving it right now...hooray!

you can fix mine for me tomorrow while i am setting up your car to start :)

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just got back from a very hot drive. No A/C at the moment.

After the start problem we had a small fuel issue.

But all sorted. Took the car for a spin down to the tuners and then took it for a well needed wash. The car looks so much better when you are not looking at it in a garage. Wheels and stance set it off.

Wastegate pipe is made and fark it is loud.

Much gating to be had at Powercruise :)

Will be heading out to KK on Friday night if anyone wants to catch up?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Valve clearance for RB25det series 2

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • GTSBoy
      Valve clearance for RB25det series 2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Kinkstaah
      Valve clearance for RB25det series 2

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...