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Not according to Superlap Website, or maybe error. I see Bill Nabin did a 1 21.37 in rotory something.

Says on the site.

Fastest Rotary – Mohammed Khan – RX-7

Oops, i didnt see the street class. Well, good luck to him. We may hang shit on him, but none of us set him straight, the organisers didnt set him straight and it was probably his first event. So i am sure he will have learnt...well here is to hoping anyway :P

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Ordered photos of the GTR crashing... poor bugger, this thing had been awesome to watch all day long!! :P

If the owner doesn't want these posted, please tell me and i'll remove them. I read they want them posted though, so let me know if this isn't the case.

I've got the sequence of the Evo crashing too (mate using my camera happened to catch it!)... I'll post them up if someone wants.

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Yeah it's a nasty corner. I sat there all day because pretty much every car would get rather sideways into it or through it :down: Most cars had some massive oversteer there.. most guys learnt by midday to sit a gear higher than common sense said, but we loved the guys that didn't haha

BIGRED... well that car sounded AWESOME :laugh: Had us all guessing what motor was in it.. I forgot that I'd watched the movies of it tons of times on youtube

R34 that did a couple of drift laps at the end.. champion!! We'd been seeing you in "pain" all day trying to keep the thing straight!!

UAS 300ZX... at the end of the day you really started getting into it and it was great to watch. That thing is running a shit load of power :):) Loved it

EVOs... you were boring to watch, it reminded me why I sold my Evo haha :P

All the other cars were great too... plenty of highlights in my mind!! I've posted up a few photos of the cars I know are off here... truth be told a mate borrowed my camera for the day as I was feeling lazy. They're not the best photos but I figure no one will say "no" to photos :)

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From what i understood on the superlap website, correct me if im wrong but diddnt you have to have factory engine fitted to run in the sprint class and anything goes in the open class? im only curious as i figured i would have to run my car in the opens. but this is new to me so i could have miss-understood.

quote As a different topic for debate - I'm REALLY suprised no one has had a whinge about making rules requiring cars to run at least OEM manufacturer engines (i.e. Nissans must run a Nissan Engine - etc). What is to stop some of the crazy light weight kit cars coming in and just making a mockery of this event?

(I personally don't care but I could see some of the supporting workshops getting upset if this isn't watched surely?)

Edited by BezerkR32
Yeah it's a nasty corner. I sat there all day because pretty much every car would get rather sideways into it or through it :P Most cars had some massive oversteer there.. most guys learnt by midday to sit a gear higher than common sense said, but we loved the guys that didn't haha

All the other cars were great too... plenty of highlights in my mind!! I've posted up a few photos of the cars I know are off here... truth be told a mate borrowed my camera for the day as I was feeling lazy. They're not the best photos but I figure no one will say "no" to photos :down:

thanks for throwing a photo of my slow barge in there Michael.

I didn't go a gear higher in that corner - figured I was never going to be fast anyway in that boat so why be slow and smooth? Thought I'd at least try not to bore everyone too much.

Thats awesome, deffinately kept busy. im going to do a few laps in my kart before taking that on in the skyline.

Tell me thats not a hundred times more fun than drag racing.

In car footage Superlap Clubclass winners - Boston/Elias Honda S2000.

Thats awesome, deffinately kept busy. im going to do a few laps in my kart before taking that on in the skyline.

Tell me thats not a hundred times more fun than drag racing.

Nice Bozman and I learnt a lot from watching you on the day and seeing pics like below and watching in car vid. Cutting Suttons and dog leg and hoping last bit of the ripple strip or kerb coming onto the straight, prob good for half a second?

Getting that dogleg ripple strip in the middle fo the car is key thouhg as half doing it would chop the inside of rim and tyres I would think? Seeing and knowing and then doing is something else though.

Cutting ripple strips

Some good pics on LS1 forum would you believe.

_AJN6193.jpg

LS1 Superlap thread.

Edited by Boosted Zed

Hey BLitz were you out on Sat as did not see you?

Yes VQ38 project went on hold with the fire above our old shop then the big move build new shop and big job and need more time and money to do. Will do hopefully next year.

Tommo zed was actually down on power due to new suspension set up and rear springs being too hard and oversteering so much. We put race fuel in and turned up timing about half what we could have and car went slower. It would have been around 380rwkw on the boost button. So softer springs in rear and a few other changes we found we need to front end, such as less neg camber, and probably another second in according to Bozman.

BTW what suspension and tyres was the S2000 running??

Tyre warming contest

Edited by Boosted Zed

The S2000's suspension was bought in Japan and installed by Elias years ago when the car was first built. As far I know it has never been touched or played with since taking all of the bits out of the boxes and installing it all on the car.

I think some people just play with cars too much and get lost with a setup.

Standard S2000's are shocking to drive. Even though they have a 50/50 weight balance, they have a very short wheel base and are just so snappy in a slide.

I am pretty sure we were running Toyo's or Falkens.

BTW JP I think you can change the OP GP time in your sig :P

Edited by Bozman1
did i say i want a Honda S2000 turbo ?

Yep they seem a good thing although have weak drive shafts and other issues. She was strong on the day, for sure. The alloy light weight engine is also way back in the engine bay. I wonder what time it would do on R compound tyres and a bit of weight out of it?

Boz I just changed sig.

This one will never break drive shafts :)

Hmm is that a wish or a positve thought in hope or non standard?

Re set up I have been lost numerous time, getting closer to the mark though after testing with pyro and driving the car and seeing how it goes with new suspesnion set up. I have read lots of books on race suspenion, spoke to lots of race engineers and utilised a few. Also had some good advice from Ben from Race Pace in Melbourne and Sydney Kid, also Graham from Fulcrum suspension, race drivers such as John Web and then Bozman drives it and confirms too hard springs in rear which I was aware of and ordered softer ones but could not get in time.

Edited by Boosted Zed
There seems to be some good footage up

http://au.youtube.com/results?search_query..._type=&aq=f

Those concrete patches on the inside of the kerbs are way too nasty for my R34. The rims and shocks would be in agony.

Super quick little beast though. Love the way it hooks up..

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    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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