Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all. I am wanting to get more into the track n drift scene in the near future and i am trying to decide on what car i should be looking at. I am prob goin to use the car as my daily most of the time, then take it to track days etc for a bit of fun.

I have been looking at the following cars to use.

- skyline r32 2ltr GTST

- skyline r33 2.5 ltr GTST

- silvia SR20 DET

- 180sx SR20 DET

- 200sx SR20 DET

The car of choice needs to be reasonably fuel efficient etc. I would like a 4cyl car but i do like the 6cyl's charm :P I am just curious to know if a r32 gtst would be much more fuel hungry than a SR 20 engine? Which would give me better power output for drift or track stuff?

The car will need to be registered and i will drive it around untill it gets canned then prob trailer it anyways to track days.

Is it a stupid idea trying to combine a street car and track car. I would prefer it to be registered tho cos it will be far more use to me.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212425-what-to-buy-as-a-dailytrack-car/
Share on other sites

They are all pretty good cars to use as the type of platform you require, just got to look worldwide to see that, my R32 gtst gets 550+ k's per tank if I'm not giving it some, love the balance of it too, am about to do suspension, then power-up-cant wait hahahahahahahahaha(maniacal laughter)

Either:

* Silvia with SR20DET. Lightest of the bunch.

* R33 with RB25DET. Biggest engine.

What you choose depends on what you can afford and your driving style. The R33 has a longer wheelbase and should therefore be more stable in the high speed stuff, but the S13 will be more nimble. Finding performance mods for any other cars should be easy as they're all popular.

S13 should be cheaper to maintain, though.

I'd also go for s13. You can go pretty fast in them if you spend a bit of time on the handling side.

The probelm is that it's hard to have a daily/track hack.

Mine is basically a registered track car these days. I drive to the track, flog it, and either drive or limp home depending on the damage :P I would not want to drive my daily transport on a track, you couldn't push for times as you'd be scared to damage it.

It would have to be between the s14 and 33 ....

The SR and RB25 are good bases for bolt on modifictions and will hold 250kw somewhat reliably.. the 25 has the cubes to go a bit further but the s14 is lighter..

Edited by Tomek

my r33 takes around 12L/100km driving normally which is pretty good. you can also pick one up for really cheap as theres just so many of them for sale. the fact that its newer then the s13 and r32 also give you something to consider. plus the rb25 is just a damm good engine that would probably outlast the sr20 and the rb20

Hmm yeah i would like an R33 but only looking at spending maybe 10k at the most on a car. I was thinking maybe of getting a R32 cos they would be a bit cheaper etc. I also would hate to smash up a good car that has good paint etc. So i thought older car would be ok cos it will have dints etc already. I guess if i have an older skyline i can always build the motor up better once it F!*ks up.

track use of a daily requires the right sort of backup. Money (to replace worn things & fix broken things). Good facitities in your shed for getting things done before the weekend is over.

If you need the car to drive during the week then either a backup bunky car or the above things.

It's going to cost you to enjoy the track often so why not a fairly stock GTR? in for a penny in for a pound.

Hang on a minute...$10k?

Skylines are out for you mate. Maybe an R31.

You can't afford it right now I'm afraid if $10k is your budget.

My thoughts are maybe buy yourself an unlicenced bunky , a car trailer and some tools/equipment and gradually do it up. Or just invest your money , grow it and then buy someone elses track car misery and save time and money to get started.

Hmm i seen quite a few r32's for sale for less than 10k and many 180sx's. I could afford a more expensive car but i dont really want one thats in the best body condition etc. I not worried bout that side of it. I hope to get something cheapish then build it up a bit into a toy for the track. I already got a large amount of tools to fix stuff etc. I would not be so worried about damaging it and not having it available for the next wk as i have my R33 to use and my current daily driver and my motorbike. So i should be right if something happened.

I just looking for a good base to use and build on. I will be able to afford engine rebuild etc if something happened. Was just trying to find a shit box for under 10k.

RB20DET is probably cheaper second hand than SR20DET, RB25DET if something does go wrong with the engine.

R33 chassis supposedly has the better front suspension setup with R32 second and S13, S14, S15 last.

Also R33 has the 296mm R32 GTR style front rotors vs 280mm on R32, 280mm on S13??, S14, S15.

R33 has a stronger gearbox and drivetrain than R32 or S13, S14, S15.

Looking at the above, R33 chassis without the RB25DET motor for under 10K and fit the lighter

SR20DET or cheaper RB20DET. Or a single turbo RB26DET (solid cams) with around 400hp.

Edited by SKYPER

dude buy the blue cefiro? save up another 2 grand and it's yours!

check the cefiro section it's for sale in there, you have a choice of 9grand to buy as a pure track car or 12 grand to have it complied and road rego'd

GREAT way to get a wicked sick hot looking track / daily

but no offence but you're pipe dreaming at have 10K for a track AND daily...

Hey. Thx for the feedback. I am not entirely sure what way i am going to go yet. I can save for longer and get something more expensive etc but i just dont like the idea of smashing up a nice 10K + car. Meh i will prob get over that problem soon enough. I also have been thinking of the idea of getting a rolling shell and putting a rebuilt motor into it etc. All tho i guess once i muck around getting everything done to it i would prob have paid more anyways?

Maybe i should just sit tight and save then see where things go.

Thanks all

you only smash it up if youre a bad driver :yes:

He He yeah i am reasonably good at driving. Used to have paddock bombs etc so used to sliding round etc. I know for sure that i am a hell of alot better driver than most of the dumbasses out on our roads. I nearly get into an accident every month due to some dickhead that can't drive for shit. LOL there is one roadabout near my place that i nearly been cleaned up at about 5 times. Always when i am turning right at the road about i get people that don't look or give way. Last incident was only 2 wks ago when this guy come racing towards the roadabout in his 4WD towing a tandem trailer. I seen him comming as i turned right and could see he goin fairly fast. Sure enough he locked it up comming into the roadabout. I just stopped in the roadabout and waited for him to slide to a stop before continuing to turn right. I dunno what he was thinking. Dumbshit.

Well thats just one of my many stories. I am sure you all have some.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...