Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HAS ANYONE OUT THERE WITH A R34 GTT HAD ANY ISSUES FITTING THE HKS SSQ IN THE SAME SPOT THE FACTORY BOV IS?

MY TUNER MENTIONED ITS NOT A SIMPLE BOLT ON, EVEN WITH THE ADAPTER FLANGE. APPARENTLY HE NEEDS TO CUT HERE AND WELD THERE, HE IS STRONLGY RECOMENDING AGAINST PUTTING IT IN.

HAS ANYONE HAD PROBS FITTING?

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213137-hks-ssq-bov-install-probs/
Share on other sites

HAS ANYONE OUT THERE WITH A R34 GTT HAD ANY ISSUES FITTING THE HKS SSQ IN THE SAME SPOT THE FACTORY BOV IS?

MY TUNER MENTIONED ITS NOT A SIMPLE BOLT ON, EVEN WITH THE ADAPTER FLANGE. APPARENTLY HE NEEDS TO CUT HERE AND WELD THERE, HE IS STRONLGY RECOMENDING AGAINST PUTTING IT IN.

HAS ANYONE HAD PROBS FITTING?

CHEERS

Ive got one fitted in my car, there's NO welding required, as it is a simply bolt on the factory pipe along with

the correct adapter plate attached.

DID IT GET IN THE WAY OF ANYTHING? APPARENTLY MINE IS? ALSO, I HAVE THE ADAPTER KIT TO FIT STRAIGHT ONTO MY ORIGINAL FLANGE,

DID YOU GUYS PLUMB IT BACK ?

Apparently yours is?? is that where you thinking, or is that what you've been told.

Post a pic mate, I didnt plumb back, it runs fine :/

MY TUNER MENTIONED HE WOULD PUT MY BOV ON FREE OF CHARGE AS LONG AS IT WAS SIMPLY A BOLT ON JOB AS I AM ALREADY PAYING 2,500.00 FOR A POWER FC, WALBRO PUMP + LABOUR.

HE RANG ME LAST NIGHT AND MENTIONED THAT IT WASNT GONNA BE AS SIMPLE AS BOLTING ON SINCE HE INSISTED WE PLUMB IT BACK. HE SAID THE BOV ITSELF HAD NO ROOM TO FIT AS A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR MY FACTORY BOV AND THE HKS PLUMB BACK EXTENSION WASNT LONG ENOUGH TO CONNECT WITH MY PIPE LEADING BACK TO THE ENGINE.

HE WAS PRETTY MUCH TELLING ME ITS WAS GOING TO NEED WELDING, FABRICATION, CUTTING, ETC. HE PRETTY MUCH TOLD ME TO FORGET ABOUT IT. I CANT FORGET ABOUT IT AS I HAVE JUST FORKED OUT ALMOST 400 BUCKS ON THIS BLOODY BOV AND I WANT IT ON MY FRIGGIN CAR.

IM NO MECHANIC BUT IS FITTING THE HKS BOV ON MY GTT SOMETHING I COULD DO MYSELF? I DID REPLACE MY FACTORY AIR FILTER WITH A POD FILTER MYSELF SO IF I WAS CAPABLE OF THAT SHOULD THE BOV BE SIMILAR IN FITTING?

THANKS BOYS.

as long as your engine bay is stockish then there should be no problem what so ever. There's the adaptor plate, the rubber o ring to go on the BOV and the little circlip that holds everything in place. 2 minute job putting it on. Pic of engine bay would help/.

ahh i think i see wat your trying to do mate. u want to plumb it back. DONT BOTHER. that is a bitch, and at the most all it would take is the plumb back adapter and maybe half a foot of 1'' rubber hose.

anyway. if u just block off the stock return pipe, and bolt on the ssq with the adapter. it will take about 15min. take out 2 bolts, take off stock bov. block return pipe. stick on bov with adapter and stick in the 2 bolts. thats it. i really dont see how its that difficult. i might suggest that your so called 'tuner' either doesnt know shit all. OR he has seen u coming a mile away. and would like to make a quick buck.

adapter shud look like this

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skyline-GTS-BOV-ada...bayphotohosting

Edited by r33cruiser

hey thanks for the info guys. I think R33Cruiser is on the same page as my "tuner", the plumbing back side is whats causing the apparent massive headache.

Either way we've given the BOV install a miss this time round, but when i get the car back tonight, i will have a look and try and swap my stock BOV with the HKS BOV. I do have the adapter you are referring to with the BOV.

but with blocking the return pipe, whats a good way to do this? as I will attempt to swap BOV's myself tonight.

Edited by CK34GT

Hey how r ya, Its really eas to install, no cutting or welding is needed, ur tuner probably thought it was the universial one, wot u need is an adapter! its just a simple bolt on, And you also have to block your plumback with a metal thingy.. mine came with it.. Tough sound but car doesnt run right unless u tune it, ur car will run rich and will stall sometimes.. that is just my 2cents from wot ive learnt.

Geraus.

CK34GT get a pic of your engine bay near your throttle body, its a freakn 10min job and shouldnt hard at all.

even if u wanna plumb it back it is easy as piss, as long as you have the plumb back adapter.

if you dont have anything and jsut the BOV, then yes its gonna be a pain.

if ur unsure like i said post a pic ive done it before

CK34GT get a pic of your engine bay near your throttle body, its a freakn 10min job and shouldnt hard at all.

SIF 10 min job.... dont tell him its 10 minutes, he starts to panic after 10 minutes....

i just install it yesterday.

YES i agree with you, theres a hose which is connected to your boost reading for the stock boost gauge in the car, u can just fit the ssqv in an angle around 30 degrees.

you do not need to fit it in horizontally, just give it a twist b4 installing it into the current position.

all you need is an adapter from ebay. works fine n quality is not bad.

Hi All,

Ok I got the car back last night. By the way the Power FC makes such a massive difference.

Anyways back on topic. I have taken a few snap shots of my engine bay as is and my new BOV accessories.

I have a pretty good idea what to do.

2002801899462616405_th.jpg

2002806121756749678_th.jpg

Any advise let me know what you think.

Thanks heaps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...