Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just did the r34gtt front brake conversion this morning on my m35 axis. As others have said, pretty much direct bolt on. Just had to remove the olive/restrictor from the gtt calipers and the dust shield met Mr hammer which worked well. I managed to get the required clearance without trimming it. The axis rims fit back on without clearance issues which is a bonus. Just got to bleed the brakes after lunch and go for a drive. All in all, very straightforward upgrade.

Is the internal diameter of the m35 line connector the same as this 'restrictor'. Thats why i kept mine in

I believe the restrictor needs to be removed otherwise the banjo bolt can't seat all the way unless you shorten in. I didn't bother checking I just removed it as advised in this thread.

Yes there is no need if u do that. My logic was the original m35 calipers that the factory banjos screw into don't have an olive and the lines aren't designed to be used with it in. The reality is it probably makes f**k all difference and is a personal preference thing.

  • Like 1

Use a self tapping screw. Screw it in till it stops or until the olive starts spinning with it then pull out with some pliers. 1 I took out came easy as the olive started spinning. The other was a bit of a bitch but came out eventually with a bit of CRC and some careful pulling.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

Hey anoyone with big brakes, don't forget to check your spare if it fits.

Mine doesn't even on the back with 12mm spacers.

Need to source another rim with matching size and offset from a wrecker.

Lucklity I had a flat in the city and not down the snow where i was 2 weeks ago.....

Hey anoyone with big brakes, don't forget to check your spare if it fits.

Mine doesn't even on the back with 12mm spacers.

Need to source another rim with matching size and offset from a wrecker.

Lucklity I had a flat in the city and not down the snow where i was 2 weeks ago.....

My spare has been sitting in my garage for quite some time. No point in having it in the car as it doesn't fit unless I put two 25mm bolt-on spacers on the hub.

So i decided to go with THIS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...