Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I have a Skyline and its not feeling quite as perky as she used to.

I'm thinking about pouring about 10k into it. In that 10k is 1k of Stereo and 2k of Suspension (SK's Springs, Bilsteins, Sway bars) . Leaving about 7k on gofast bits/install/tune.

Current mods are as follows...

FMIC

PFC

AVC-R

Bosch 040

3inch turbo-back exhaust.

I've sorta decided I want a new turbo - as the people who are going to do the work tend to think that its a lot more reliable at getting good figures (he felt that whilst sometimes you get good results out of hi-flows, othertimes not so as much as he'd expect) - also, the engine has 110k on it, which means that poor stock turbo has been huffing a bit more boost than it should have for at least 35k of those.

Restrictions?

* Stock-Airbox (although I am quite keen on getting a CAI box setup of some description...), I really don't want a pod and If it can stay in the Stock-Airbox, all the better.

* Staying internally gated

What I want?

Currently (before I took the Pod off) I was getting ~200rwkw at 15psi. I want more (duh), but It also has to be on the responsive side of power. I don't want something that doesn't start because its too cold, is unbearable off-boost etc. My missus drives this to work 5 days a week, and I do the long trips/weekends :D.

I am sorta keen on a set of Cam's to go with the mods (injector's, turbo+bits to make it fit, Z32, CAI mod) as the old V8 guy in me thinks it will aid in making sure things are a bit more responsive - am I right in this belief?

I've had a poke around and people seem to be making ~270-300 rwkw with this kind of setup, with graph's that look quite sporty between 4200-6700 rpm.

Edited by nsanity
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213726-recommend-me-an-upgrade/
Share on other sites

HKS T51R SPL.....I love these threads.
That's because you don't read his requirements and post up shit! :D

I would go with what PaulR33 advised, would be a good package to meet your requirements, with acceptable response. If you have the money, get a set of Tomei Poncams and while you have the head open fit some Tomei valve springs. While you have it almost all apart, a quick reco/freshen-up of the head may not go a stray (valve stem seals, etc)

Cams will definitely help mid to high rpm range, but are not necessary to make good power. They will make less power in the low rpm range, but is hardly noticable.

I would go with what PaulR33 advised, would be a good package to meet your requirements, with acceptable response. If you have the money, get a set of Tomei Poncams and while you have the head open fit some Tomei valve springs. While you have it almost all apart, a quick reco/freshen-up of the head may not go a stray (valve stem seals, etc)

So a shopping list consisting of

HKS Turbo Kit - GT Sports Pro (Nissan - Skyline - ECR33/ER34 - GT2835 Pro S - A/R 0.68)

Tomei Air Flow Meter - Z32 (Air Flow Meter Z32)

Tomei Pon Camshafts (ECR33 Series 1 (RB25DET) - Duration: IN,EX 256 Lift: IN,EX 8.5mm)

Tomei Valve Springs (Nissan - Skyline - ECR33 - RB25DET - Type A - Lift 8.80)

Nismo High Performance Injectors - Yellow - 555cc

or thereabouts would do wonders? I notice the A/R on the HKS kit is lower compared to Paul's recommendation...

I assume I'll need some alternate manifolds, or are the 2835's a straight swap?

That's because you don't read his requirements and post up shit! :DI would go with what PaulR33 advised, would be a good package to meet your requirements, with acceptable response. If you have the money, get a set of Tomei Poncams and while you have the head open fit some Tomei valve springs. While you have it almost all apart, a quick reco/freshen-up of the head may not go a stray (valve stem seals, etc)

Cams will definitely help mid to high rpm range, but are not necessary to make good power. They will make less power in the low rpm range, but is hardly noticable.

The reason for my response was the fact that there are about 10 of these threads per day. Searching is one of if not the best way to get an answer as subjects like this have been covered time and time and time again.

To the moderators , is it worth having a small number example builds and graphs - sort of along the lines of what a typical Skyline owners opts for and post them up in a separeate section ? I know this overlaps with the turbo results section but just a suggestion . Might give the new punters an idea of what to expect ?

A .

HKS GTRS turbo, strait bolt on, internally gated.

Injectors

Aftermarket panel air filter

I have similar mods to you aswell as what i have listed and am getting around 275rwkw, my next move is cams

So you are getting 275 rwkw with the standard air box?

To the moderators , is it worth having a small number example builds and graphs - sort of along the lines of what a typical Skyline owners opts for and post them up in a separeate section ? I know this overlaps with the turbo results section but just a suggestion . Might give the new punters an idea of what to expect ?

A .

To SAU Mods:

+1 Like "N1GTR's RB26 rebuild" thread, or "Birth of an RB25" thread. They were great reads.

What if there is a new subsection titled "Engine builds" for example, with subsections within it for different engines, and another series of subsections for different power brackets OR stages (std engine/forged engine/race engine) OR turbo choices. Will save lots of leg work for heaps of people.

It could be like the engine upgrade section BUT can be more in-depth, with pictures and open discussion (unlike the no chit-chat policy :rofl: ).

All this needs is approval- and donators willing to give their time to create the threads :P

Edited by R338OY
HKS GTRS turbo, strait bolt on, internally gated.

Injectors

Aftermarket panel air filter

I have similar mods to you aswell as what i have listed and am getting around 275rwkw, my next move is cams

I like this one... That will get you response, lots more power, and probably save you money.

Make sure its the GTRS turbo kit though.

My 2c

So a shopping list consisting of

or thereabouts would do wonders? I notice the A/R on the HKS kit is lower compared to Paul's recommendation...

I assume I'll need some alternate manifolds, or are the 2835's a straight swap?

Definitely go a larger A/R as paul recommended. I don't think the one you posted would be too street friendly.

For your suspension have you looked into any of the Jap coilovers? I was going to SK suspension but have now opted for a HKS coilover from doing a search and recommendations of people who have been in and driven cars with those coilovers but then that also depends what you're looking for in your suspension...

Definitely go a larger A/R as paul recommended. I don't think the one you posted would be too street friendly.

For your suspension have you looked into any of the Jap coilovers? I was going to SK suspension but have now opted for a HKS coilover from doing a search and recommendations of people who have been in and driven cars with those coilovers but then that also depends what you're looking for in your suspension...

The comfort side of performance. I don't lower my car's - speed humps exist and you have to deal with them :D

Everything I've ever read has said that Jap Coilovers are built for roads that aren't in Australia - you know those smooth and maintained ones :D

I used to be in Canberra (now Melb) and every other month someone was selling their Tein's or what have you to pay for their chiropractor.

breaks, suspension!!

who does?

using bare hands?

anyway, nsanity sounds like you have your head on straight and "kinda" know what you are after and what you will need.

This is one of the BETTER "what mods should I do" threads

I agree with the new section.

kinda like a "readers rides" but more so a members builds.

make it so anyone can create a thread, maybe provide a template for car, engine, mods.

then only the thread started can update.

anyone who wants to ask quesitons can PM the person.

that way you get no chit chat, and you have a full diary/blog type thread of each member is doing/has done to their automobile.

I am yet to read a better thread than Godzilla32's "My restoration" thread.

And that is stickied in the general maintenance section.

surely it needs to go in the POOL ROOM..

and that there is what the new section should be called.

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...