Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would have thought the tape prevents the broken peices of glass falling all over the place in an accident...

Touche`

if i even spelt that right. haha. only reason i was thinking was to minimize sun glare off the head lights. either for the driver infront or driver themselves... i now highly doubt that. haha

It is also used to distinguish cars from other similar cars when they are running down the straight and you have to put out the time board and you show it to the wrong one without tape on the headlights... man, I must have done that like 4 laps in a row til someone told me :blink:

I thought it was just to hold the glass together a bit better. Don't really understand for plastic though, but a suppose the same can apply.

When drifting, there is a lot of stress on the car, so I figured this provides a little rigidity for the lights to avoid them cracking. Might be totally wrong, but thats what I've assumed :blink:

Actually the precise intersection of crossing tape on a headlight gives the car a much needed boost in aerodynamic instability. Which results in more ability to get the car sideways.

+1

sounds like the most reasonable explanation

Yeah dude i learnt from driving country roads to and from pinjarra. helps stop shockwave and has saved a few windows id say. doesnt stop it chipping the window though :D

Gotta be careful with that though.. Heard some horror stories about shattering all the bones in your hand doing that..

Nothing can help you Rhys.

Cheers Steve, appreciate it mate.

stops the lights shattering if they cop a rock or something off the track, same as when u pass a car on a country road you touch the windscreen. Absorbs the impact and helps lessen the damage.

:)

They did this on MythBusters. Putting your hand on the window has no affect what-so-ever!! Your window won't break, its reinforced or whatever it is. All cars are from a certain year. Cant remember what year though, but fairly old.

Cheers Steve, appreciate it mate.

They did this on MythBusters. Putting your hand on the window has no affect what-so-ever!! Your window won't break, its reinforced or whatever it is. All cars are from a certain year. Cant remember what year though, but fairly old.

damn bat me to it :blink:

as said, mythbusters, been there done that, negative on the impact absorption

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...