Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 5 months later...

when on track and wot I get a rather high pitched pschht.. I have the stock bov and my fmic isnt huge but it is free flowing. meh. is pretty much non existent to anyone not in the cabin any other time, basically very quiet on light throttle ie street driving.

forgot to mention that my return piping is red rubber.. red is better!

Edited by gts-4 dreamer
  • 3 years later...

In regards to what JiVE said:

"And if your after the 'flutter' sound this can also be acheived through the stock bov. Just get a POD and pull the vacum hose out of the BOV. Make sure you block it off real good however, or you will stall."

Have any of you guys actually done that? And what is it about that that would flutter? I've heard of the fluttering before, but i don't know what causes it.

And what sort of effect would this have on driving and safety of my engine and parts?

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but was this ever clarified?

No no no

This will do the complete opposite to whats good

Will open and leak boost when you up it. It will flutter on boost levels where the spring tension is not overcome yes, but you will loose lots of power when it has enough boost to over come the spring

Think about the purpose of the vac line. Provides vac on closed throttle conditions and pressure when boosting to keep the valve closed.

  • 1 year later...

Quick question;

I recently upgraded my inlet pipe(stock rubber) to an aluminum pbm inlet pipe .( for better breathing) . Doing so I had to delete a metal pipe that recirculates air from my bov back to my intake /inlet pipe. Bov is now releasing to atmosphere causing my rpms to crumble and engine almost wants to die off when I rev it. But idle is smooth on its own unless I rev it .i can drive it but when I come to a stop it wants to die off but it will fight on its own to stay on ,it just ruff idles for a bit and goes to steady idle after a sec or two.. By the way my stock bov is pretty loud for being oem as for this topic...

to my understanding this engine was built to reserculate the bov air back to the engine ... . My question is...is there a way to trick my engine/ ecu to running normal as if the bov air was normally recirculating back to my engine or do I have to get a tune to adjust the new setting ?

Edited by ChEwDog

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...