Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what mods you got mate?

HSD Coilovers

Strut bars

Poliurithane bushes throughout

Clutch

Fixed back bucket

32 GTR rims

CAI

Headers and full exhaust + cat guts punched out

Lightened driveshaft

Advanced timing

Then random things like steering wheel, gear knob..

Front disks are on their way out so here I come slotted and drilled + Ghetto brake duct mod!

Hahah really?

Man i have seen 1 R32 aye.. and it was a white GTR.

I never see any lines when im down at work :(

yeah i see it when im leaving work on lane cove just before epping road haha

how much power is your car putting out GTS4WD ?

nice mods :D

Gave my automobile a wash today and decided to take a few of pics of it

Needs a new set of wheels desperately, looking for 33gtr's

Looking nice and clean. If you do go for new wheels consider offset as one of your highest priorities. I clean mine maybe once a month lol, she's rough as so I really cbf.

how much power is your car putting out GTS4WD ?

nice mods :)

Cheers mate,

Id be surprised if it pulls 110kw at all fours..

I rather save the money id spend on a dyno jut to be disapointed :D

A little more power would be nice though :)

BTW: ShanO' nice 34!.. Theres something about four doors that just looks PHAT!

Heres my muppet, was untidy in this picture, hasn't had any external love for a while, though it's lined up for a full body respray, in a similar blue, bit more metallic, brighter pearl, etc.

mods are RB30DE (25/30) don's old engine, pulled 151rwkw as it was (with only a couple changes - a/f mix, timing, y piece). Now nothing like that, whole engine has been appart, head done, cams adjusted, mines ecu, fujitsumoto (sp) 3" extractors and mandrel exhaust, fpr, bosch 023 pump, 370cc injectors, AFC neo, increased compression to 11.5:1 running methanol blend. (thats as it was at the drags) Engine currently undergoing a deck shave to as far as possible, to hopefully take CR up to 12.5-13:1, removing hot spots etc. Combining this with full time water/meth injection, and a microtech ecu - for pump fuel and high ign timing and compression and lean a/f mixtures, plus a 90mm tb and ff plenum with cold air ram straight from the plenum through where the battery normally sits (wont get heated by exhaust etc) plenum is insulated to stop heat soak from coolant, and has an insulated spacer plate as well, so it is always icy cold... Car has temp controlled elec thermo fan, 52mm triple core alloy radiator, silicon + high temp/pressure hoses with hd clamps for high pressure. Still trying to decide on whether or not its worthwhile balancing the bottom end atm, i don't think it was ever done, the engine pulls hard and peaks at about ~ 6200rpm, and holds power until 7000rpm (where i wont rev it any further). It'll be a costly exercise to sent it away for proper balancing - still weighing yay or nay. I ultimately want to hit 250rwhp, which should easily be achievable i think.

other mods... interior's pretty schmicko, its a Ti so blue velor and full electrics, with manual conversion. It has Excedy HD organic clutch and billet steel flywheel, RB20DET gearbox, singlepeice tailshaft, 3.9 diff gears on locked diff, stock rims and tyres (for now, got some nice 16" BBS meshies on the way, cant wait) and stiff customs springs and shocks (and custom struts) full polyurethane bushes through out, HD front and rear sways and strut brace, weight has been moved around a bit, car sticks like shit to a blanket, it out handles me on the road (even with stock rims, good tires) - meaning it'll corner faster than i want to. Runs slotted and cross drilled DBA4000 disks and green stuffs pads with braided brake lines, never let me down, i'm not a fan of un-necessary braking power, It'l out power any tyres i give it and never experienced fade, the day i do ill upgrade. (bigger heavier brakes kill acceleration).

Drags it only got a low 14, only had a couple runs and temp was an issue (had to wind a lot of timing out of it and a lot of fuel into it) plus i couldn't get traction on take off, first gear was only good for ~ half throttle clutch slip. I've now got some exchange rear struts with taller soft springs and reasonable shocks for some squat for traction (combined with better wheels/tires) for a while down the track when it see's the strip again.

post-18637-1208389696_thumb.jpg

post-18637-1208393596_thumb.jpg

Edited by SKiT_R31

hah, cheers - yeah I've got some vids, nothing decent though

this one was filmed by the other guy at the drags, i just randomly found it on youtube. Its a test and tune drag day, and thats what i was doing, it was a hot day, and on my first run i heard detonation, so this is my second run, where i wound the timing back to ~ 5 degrees BTDC (retarded) and increased fuel a bit too much (esp in top end as you can see), i short shifted third and the car just bogged right down, thus the bad time. - Car had to sit in line for like 15mins which killed the temp on the bad cooling/intake system.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=dWUEvS9a3Hs

This one was filmed by my drunk girlfriend (lol dont ask) on her phone, i must have nicked the indicator (cant hear much with helmet) so i didn't realize it was on, lol - got it half way down the strip... This was one of my quicker runs, and was after lunch, the car had been left to cool a bit, had between 5-10 degree's ignition timing and still pretty rich

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=dzsZxrK1mSc

I love the first vid noise, you can hear how tame the engine is, half throttle and it just holds the revs perfect, mmm.... miss driving her...

Edited by SKiT_R31

post-44881-1208438766_thumb.jpgpost-44881-1208438731_thumb.jpg

hi guys,

this is my 1996 series 2 Skyline N/A auto.

Tell me what you think.

With a limited budget set in mind i wanted to keep it subtle and clean and not go overboard and cause the attention dat skylines create as we all know.

So far it has: Cusco Coilovers fully adjustable, riding on 17"x7" front and 17x8" super advan rims. All stereo components decked out in jaycar kevlar series, Custom parcel shelf, pioneer head unit, 300rms 12" carbon fibre Jaycar sub in a custom box. Painted GT badges black and sprayed red calipers and silver hubs, smoked indicators, Drift pod filter in an enclosed box, 3A racing cannon muffler and 4000k white bulbs.

WANTED:

Nismo front lip for series 2 (refer to the pic below, please pm me if you have it, will pay cash and pickup in Melbourne area.

post-44881-1208572948_thumb.jpg

Edited by vinny cos

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...