Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrecking my Black 1993 R33 GTS-t 82,000K's due to minor front end damage and underbody damage. Everything from the car is up for grabs apart from turbo.

Let me know what you want and i will reply with a price. Everything is in Good/Excellent condition unless otherwise stated.

Aftermarket parts include:

"LINER" - Victorian Number Plates - Front has a slight bend from collison, Would be easy to straighten - $300

Defi Link Controller - New, Never Used - $60

Full Manual Conversion - RE Customs Converted the car Auto to Manual 3 months ago - Would like to sell as a whole kit. Clutch/Flywheel done less than 5000kms.

Will include : Gearbox out of a S2 R33 done 60,000kms Had the box reco'd before instalation costing $1500 with receipts, Exedy 5 Puk Button Clutch 300rwkw, Exedy lightweight Flywheel, Maltech clutch line, clutch pedal, Master/slave cylinder, Tailshaft, Nismo Gearknob, interior bits and pieces. Clutch plate in bad condition. $2000

Front RDA Slotted rotors - Next to new, only a few thousand K's traveled - $150

Custom mdf and fibreglass Rear parcel shelf - Made to fit 2 X 6'9" Speakers. Covered in black carpet - $40

Stock Items Of Interest:

Turbo Back Exhaust including cat - Removed 3 years ago - $75

Airbox With Panel Filter - $50

Full Set of Car Mats, Front and back - $50

Rear callipers and Rotors with pads - $100

smic and piping - $40

Automatic Computer - $20

Coils - had slight misfire - $40

fuel pump - was fine for 180rwkw - $20

AFM - worked perfect when on car - SOLD

front rotors - Heaps of meat left - $40

Inlet Pipe - $20

Injectors - SOLD

Wheels, Powder coated White - Roadworthy Tyres - $200

Plenum - top and bottom - SOLD

Automatic Transmission - Perfect working condition - SOLD

Diff - from Automatic so has higher ratio than Manual - thicker pre-load shims fitted - SOLD

Front seats - $150 pair

Rear seats - $50 (cigarette burn)

Accelerator pedal & throttle cable - $50

Climate control unit - $50

Indicator stalk - $20

Electric aerial - $30

Rear wiper - $20

Rear water spray nozzle and lines - $20

Cluster/odometer for Automatic - With blue Led lights - showing 82,000km - $50

Electric mirrors Left and Right $50 each

Rear pods - Will Need Re-spray - SOLD

Boot with S1 spoiler - Has small pin dent and scratch + boot lock has been tampered with - $50

Rear bar - SOLD

Side Skirts - Will need re-spray - SOLD

Bonnet - has 4 X small dints and light Scratches - $50

Space saver - SOLD

Water Bottle - $20

Steering wheel - SOLD

Centre console - $40

Electric window controls and plastic surround for drivers side - SOLD

Engine and ancillaries will be available at a later date.

Willing to post smaller items at buyers expense - parts such as exhaust, gearbox etc are pickup only.

If theres anything not listed that you want just send me a PM or SMS and i will contact you asap.

Contact Through PM or SMS on 0422 816 780.

Can E-mail photos of parts you want to see.

PHOTOS: http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216082-wrecking-93-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...