Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my 31 fill the criteria

diffrent to cars in the mag ( yup lots of scratches porry looked after)

interesting things (its got mags)

do people want to read about (tough one but i say if you put it in the mag *** em they will have to read about it)

but anyways yea get some track day coverages

pete

Originally posted by benhpi

We're happy to feature import R31s in HPI and the local cars can go in our sister mag Zoom if they are something special.

mmm.... awesome!

we've got some HOT ones over at R31skylineclub.com

Even hot Oz imports... RB26's etc etc.

there are some bangers that's for sure.

PM sent

Originally posted by Bl4cK32

How bout comin to Adelaide for the next drift meet? Apparently they've got all places filled, and it isn't on until next month.. They were even talkin bout buildin a specialized drift track.

We will be covering that event and entering our own drift car. Actually we have been involved in the design of the new track...

Russ as its only a training sess they may not be interested *shrugs* .... unfortunately perth lacks places to legally drift.

But Perth Auto Salon is coming up in October ...... quite a few cars are getting prepared for that at the moment .... ranging from R31 old schoolers to R34's.

As for my cars ..... if u need to borrow a Z31 turbo in good condition (yes there is such a thing :P ) u know where i am ..... Nizmo my R33 looks mean from the outside but otherwise inside n engine are stock ;)

Keep up the good work with the mag ;)

Lauren

Originally posted by Duncan

A great article would be on one of our trackday outings at Eastern Creek, we've been getting 10-20 cars a regular basis, from stock to monsters.

That would be a top idea for an article seen everything from a R34 GTR Nur to an R31 on these track days.

A frined of mine has a KE55 corolla coupe he has built to 95% the same spec as a JDM TE37 levin, including JDM tailights, bumpers, Black racing (rs-watanabe style) rims, interior, and a 2T-G with dual mikunis and a T-50 box. Its currently off the road with some drift damage being repaired and a 1.8 litre high comp bottom end and 256 cams going in, as well as front coilovers and some rear end mods. All it needs is the levin grill/lights. When I say same spec as a TE37, I really mean the same spec a young hashirya would have built his te37 to in the late 70's..

http://www.tassie.net.au/jar

those pics are old though.

Theres also a guy here with a KE10 corolla coupe running a 4AGE 20V (might have a 7afe bottom end IIRC), which is also done up in a retro japanese street racer style (e.g japanese rego plates, old school wheels) .

I guess they aren't *totally* imports, but in both those cases there is really no "australian content" componentry left.

retro feature...

cheers,

floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...