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What did you do about water and oil lines? also did it require a spacer plate?

How have you found the internal gate? No boost creep at the higher end? :thumbsup::D

Sorry for all the question!

Cheers mate

Water and oil lines were custom made by Pirtek, using some special grade braided lines.

Top mount manifold, so no spacer required.

Also got the HD actuator through Slide and it's working really well, no boost creep at all.

My setup is not the best comparison as i am running a RB30DET.

Here is a graph (run-in tune), just to show you the boost curve of my set-up.

Solid line is boost.

post-1811-1209375166_thumb.jpg

oh so when i tell him the pump is the problem last night no one listens to me *starts cutting* :thumbsup: ha ha

but yeah it will be the pump for sure i had the same thing happen to me! I used a Bosch 029 after the GTR pump ran ot of flow, good for 700hp :(

Can someone confirm that the 3071/3076 need the oil/water line kit when you buy the turbo? I know some people use factory lines but i'm unsure if the garrett turbs need the kit.

Cheers

it needs the kit

it needs the kit

+1

BUT! don't get the gcg one. Even though the rubber lines have a flame proof sheath they aren't melt proof......

One of mine was lucky not to have melted through and dumped the coolant everywhere. The other one is pretty heavily discoloured even though it was tied close to the block well away from everything hot.

Luckily as the turbo is off having the waste gate ported i have the opportunity to get it fixed.

See the fact is My walbro pump hasnt shown signs it is caving in

What pump you guys recommend to changing it to

are you serious?

how about the fact that your injector duty is way to high compared to power output.

thats a major sign its caving in.

its obviously not keeping up with the flow rates required at high revs and boost.

mount a 044 intank and whatch your AFR drop down into the 10:1 range.

are you serious?

how about the fact that your injector duty is way to high compared to power output.

thats a major sign its caving in.

its obviously not keeping up with the flow rates required at high revs and boost.

mount a 044 intank and whatch your AFR drop down into the 10:1 range.

but his awesome tuner would know more than you right :D

Common Boys ............................. No need to rip in to everything

Man i brought the car to him he tuned it

I presume bel garage know what there talking about tooo

Common Boys ............................. No need to rip in to everything

Man i brought the car to him he tuned it

I presume bel garage know what there talking about tooo

ha ha sorry! They wouldnt be the first workshop to make that same mistake (the one i went to told me to change injectors too) so dont worry too much. Just next time you are there mention you might think it is the pump and not the injectors and see how they respond, im sure it will be one of those 'why didnt I think of that' moments and everyting will be sweet

As for coils. Man you need them as then will miss fire hard

i also just thought i would ask who told you this rubbish?

the standard coil packs are of a very high quality and produce more then enough spark for up past 350 rwkws.

dont replace them unless they "prove" to be faulty.

ive been running over 1.5 and up to 1.8 bar since back in 06 , with standard coils and iridiums, and have never had an issue.

i also just thought i would ask who told you this rubbish?

the standard coil packs are of a very high quality and produce more then enough spark for up past 350 rwkws.

dont replace them unless they "prove" to be faulty.

ive been running over 1.5 and up to 1.8 bar since back in 06 , with standard coils and iridiums, and have never had an issue.

bell garage told him, and convieniently had a set of spitfires in stock. lol

f**kn helll you guy are bad

it is like you are arguing with a bunch of kids

i presume that spitfires and better than 13yr old coils

you people just dont understand

our car are not brand new there about 10 - 15 yrold.

As for a walbro there is the shit ones and good ones

you can produce over 350rwkw on it....

maybe your machanic need a tune up

f**kn helll you guy are bad

it is like you are arguing with a bunch of kids

i presume that spitfires and better than 13yr old coils

you people just dont understand

our car are not brand new there about 10 - 15 yrold.

As for a walbro there is the shit ones and good ones

you can produce over 350rwkw on it....

maybe your machanic need a tune up

fella were not arguing with anyone

the $600 spent on new spitfires is a total waste of money if your stock onces are in good nick.

theres heaps of guys on here with 200kws running spitfires. and i bet a lot of them would have 6 perfect coils sitting at home in the shed, but they rush out and buy them thinking that they are needed to make reliable power.

or because they were given bad information.

until you change to a real fuel pump and watch your afr's change drematically you can keep thinking that walbros are the best pump in the world. genuine,copy,gold plated i dont care. up to 250 rwkws. awesome pump. over 250 rwkws, thro it in the bin before you lunch your motor.

if your still not convinced you will be when your ringlands let go, and you spend $10k on a forged motor, boost it to 20 psi and watch your afr's hit 13:1 with your injectors at 100% duty. maybe then you will realise that some of us on here, that allready have done all these mods are trying to help you. if you want to learn the hard way thats fine go right ahead, but just be careful how you word things because you dont want to misslead other people with here say or miss imformation.

attached is my original walbro, which contributed to my ringlands collapsing.

which was the replace with a 044 intank, running a v8 fuel sock.

AFR's are much more stable and accurate with the constant flow from the 044

post-24852-1209635745_thumb.jpg

post-24852-1209635818_thumb.jpg

another question...

will my stock bov be up to the task if i am to run 17 psi on this turbo?

ive been quoted on a turbosmart full plumback bov. for around 400

what is a cheaper option regarding plumback bov's?

I was told [note not me, but told] that the stock BOV will not cleanly handle the extra flow. But there are several shops that will mod your std BOV so that it can, mine was done when I installed the GT3076. Its no bling bling bright thing, it looks bog stock [which I think is good], but so far it has worked. And the mod didn't cost the $400 a HKS/Greddy etc BOV costs [it may not sound as good either, but I DGAF about sound].

Others on here may have different idea's.

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