Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Posting for a mate with an R31, he wants to know if anyone on the SAU site has done this conversion, cause he has just bought an R33 S2 GTR head to do the conversion.

He wants to know -

What power people have made and with what modifications?

What ECU did they use?

What CAMS were used (IF people have done the conversion what would they recomend also)

If anyone has used the N1 oil pump on the RB30 block?

And what size head gasket they used also?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216424-whose-done-the-2630-na-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posting for a mate with an R31, he wants to know if anyone on the SAU site has done this conversion, cause he has just bought an R33 S2 GTR head to do the conversion.

He wants to know -

What power people have made and with what modifications?

What ECU did they use?

What CAMS were used (IF people have done the conversion what would they recomend also)

If anyone has used the N1 oil pump on the RB30 block?

And what size head gasket they used also?

1-Depends what mods - Nobody does a 26/30 coversion and keeps it stock.. the best of a 26/30 is extracted when modified..

2-Aftermaket seems the go with PFC being the most popular for the ability to tune and every corner store ebing able to tune one. If you do a big project.. you may aswell do it right and extract the most power out of it.. if not.. do a 25/30 and spend the diffrence on the project.

3-Stock ones will work - Modded ones will work too.. the head works as a normal RB26

4-Yes. You need a new cranck collar but an N1 pump is not essential.. Rb205det is enough..

5-Im assuming your going NA? The smallest possible and then shave the head/deck the block to up the compression ratio to something desirable..

have a look at the RB2*/30 thread in the turbo section of this forum..

  • 2 months later...

He's getting Mark at MRC to do the work.

Going to be interesting, NA screamer LOL.

Apparently an RB26 harmonic balancer is essential due to revs he's hoping to pull (7500ish).

Think he's aiming for 100 HP per litre.

lol - nothings as easy nowadays anymore

boss 'freshened' up his speedway car motor - by pulling it to bits, shaving the head 20thou (AGAIN!!!!), and then screwing it all back together (holden 253) - then tuning it BY EAR!!!!!

he now has no idea what compression he is running - its at about 15:1 on methanol

the 26 head is pretty good flow wise for a n/a - i would consider HKS step 1 or poncams to extract a decent midrange

powerfc def is a go, although you could keep the stock ecu and tune it with a safc neo and get pretty good

n1 oil pump is not needed, but if you can get your hands on one then you can be rest assured that it shouldnt cause any problems later on (a 25 turbo one should be sufficient)

an oil restrictor in the head would be a good idea aswell to keep as little oil in the head as possible (enough to lubricate everything, but not too much that at high revs everything blows into the pvc/catch can) - tomei do em and hks do aswell i think

He's getting Mark at MRC to do the work.

Going to be interesting, NA screamer LOL.

Apparently an RB26 harmonic balancer is essential due to revs he's hoping to pull (7500ish).

Think he's aiming for 100 HP per litre.

If its NA with cams.. he will be seeing more than 7500.

Make sure he Balances the bottom end.. and if knows it will be seeing more than 7500ish.. he may need new rods/shot peened

  • 3 weeks later...
Is it possible to use the turbo loom/injectors or ecu? or should i just go for the N/A ones?

A new stand alone ECU will have to be used as the air fuel ratio's, timing etc. will be completely diffrent

And why wouldnt you be able to use loom and injectors?

A new stand alone ECU will have to be used as the air fuel ratio's, timing etc. will be completely diffrent

And why wouldnt you be able to use loom and injectors?

So are turbo and non turbo looms the same?

It's a 25 turbo head, so you reckon turbo injectors will be fine on the N/A?

What do you recommend for a stand alone ecu to get? I'm not looking at spend the world for it

So are turbo and non turbo looms the same?

It's a 25 turbo head, so you reckon turbo injectors will be fine on the N/A?

What do you recommend for a stand alone ecu to get? I'm not looking at spend the world for it

RB25DET injectors are good fine for an NA application.. if you can squeeze more than 200kw out of them for a turbo application, they will be fine for a 150 odd kw NA project. You could use DE injectors if the engine has minimal mods.

ECU? How long is a piece of string? How much money are you willing to spend? What mods does the engine have? What tuners are available for you to use?

Have a search.. there are a few 25/30 threads around discussing what ECU's people can/are using. Im sure Skit or one of the other boys can shed more light on the situation than I have as to what ECU they are using.

If its a basic engine with simple mods SAFC is usually the simplest option.. these retail for $250 odd and are a basic air fuel ratio adjusting ECU's that are also cheap to tune.

Off the top of my head.. Z32 ecu's can be remapped and are also compatable with NVCS RB25 heads aswell.. this would be ok for a simple engine too.

  • 1 month later...

Heard the thing come into the blocks this arvo. Sounded like a v8 induction note or something crazy!

He got the car back. All up $16k or so for build, conversion, headers, electronics, new clutch etc.

The throttle response is mad when free reved!

Ok, it runs an adaptronic computer, MAP sensor.

25de pistons and stock rods, balanced rebuilt bottom end

12.2:1 comp ratio

ported head with stock valve train still.

Stock 5 speed still and brass button clutch.

$1000 worth of tuned length headers.

It's running 139RWKW @ 5700 at the moment, stock 26 cams are holding it back, and the rest of the exhaust.

So head needs to be machined to accept 280 deg cams with 10.8mm lift, once he save up some dough again.

The engine is so smooth at idle you could balance your loose change on it! (read needs some big cams).

Not to piss on your parade but the power seems a little low for the work done...

Being twin cam and four valve the cams shouldnt really be holding it back that much. Perhaps there is gains to be made with cam timing ajustment and more tuning?

If it has GTR heads you should be able to fit bigger than 10.8mm lift cams. 10.8mm is usually the limit for the RB20/25 heads...

I'm fairly sure you can get 11.5mm + lift to suit GTR head. This should work well with a high revving N/A motor.

It's still being run in so tune ain't aggressive.

I told him to definitely get cams, and adjustable gears too.

Wasn't a cheap exercise for him lol.

Yep 26 head is used in this one.

I'll post a couple o pics when I see him again.

im totally with Nosmo.. 140rwkw is pretty weak.. same work with less comp on a honda makes more than 150kw @ wheels with a much smaller engine..

somethings def not right there..

  • 2 weeks later...

As promised, the pics:

Enjoy

post-12712-1221993753_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993779_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993801_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993838_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993867_thumb.jpg

Drove it and the throttle response is awesome. Power drops off at 6500 though and gearbox is crap for shifting (needs an r33 one). Diff is also on the way...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...