Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There really isnt any decent options on the market at the moment.

There is the usual ebay/chinese type ones which are cheap, and not exactly the best quality, but i wouldnt want one on my car.

The only real "decent" options are buying a HPI one from justjap, but there are very expensive at over $1000, they would be ALOT better made than the cheap chineses ones though, also Kazama make one similar to the HPI version but there are very hard to find and very expensive aswell

Apexi and HKS (i think Greddy/Trust make one too) make a cast low mount manifold for the rb20/rb25 but this dosent mount the turbo in the stock position so that wouldnt really be a good option either unless your willing to modify a few things, in the end the cost vs gain isnt really worth it with these two options.

There is another option which is getting your stock manifold honed/ported, a few people have had good results from that by what ive read, not sure to on cost.

The only other option is to get one custom made, which again will be expensive, i actually asked 6BOOST a while ago in a thread if he has anything/would be willing to make anything for a rb20/rb25 with the turbo in the stock position, he basically said no (if i can remeber correctly) i think his reasons were that it would be very hard to design/make one that actually fits in the stock position and would give decent gains as there is very little space to work with, you cant fit a decent collecter in that area etc etc.

So really there isnt mani options, unless your willing to spend a bit of money!

Edited by nizmo_freek

Im in the same position

Im thinkin bout going after market low mount cheap chinese manifold (can get one cheap)

atm just using the stock rb25 mani with kkr turbo

Want to go 4 my final tune soon down brisbane and not sure if i should upgrade the manifold?

Are the cheap manifolds prone to cracking under higher boost 18psi etc

Would i be better off keeping my standard cast manifold.

Juz

It has been proven time and time again that there is no benefit in running these china lowmount manifolds, if you need a lowmount, the only option worth considering (over a stock one which is fine for 300rwkw) is an HKS or Trust cast manifold.

hey guys, i have the HPI low mount and its awesome. it was over $1400 for it from justjap...so like wow expensive...

but i dont know about you but once you put new gaskets on, new studs/bolts/nuts/etc i wouldnt want to be taking all that off again...the labour is the big killer!

so do it right once from the beginning and you wont look back. with the HPI one there was no spacers or anything like that required. my hks gtrs fitted but beautiful. what you will need made up thoug is a BOV return pipe and a new intake pipe and they wont fit at all...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...