Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 60 is when the oil is cold and you want your oil to be think on cold start to protect the engine from wear. is more the smaller number that is inportant because that is the thickness when hot which is what your engine spends most of it's time being. If you look at what nissan suggests for our climate and they recomend 10W-30/40/50. For 5W-?? the climate they suggest for this is around 10 degree max. If i was on my computer i could post the chart up from the manual, i can do it later if people are interested.

Edited by D_stirls
The 60 is when the oil is cold and you want your oil to be think on cold start to protect the engine from wear. is more the smaller number that is inportant because that is the thickness when hot which is what your engine spends most of it's time being. If you look at what nissan suggests for our climate and they recomend 10W-30/40/50. For 5W-?? the climate they suggest for this is around 10 degree max. If i was on my computer i could post the chart up from the manual, i can do it later if people are interested.

I think you have that totally backwards.

The lower number is how the oil acts when cold (in the case of a 10-60 weight oil the oil acts as if it is a 10 weight oil (thin) when cold.

The higher number "60" reacts the same as a 60 weight oil (thick) when hot.

All engine oils get thinner when hot, so the oil will not be physically thicker when hot.

When cold you need a light oil to move from the sump to all the parts that need the oil to lubricate. In a freezing temperature climate ie Canberra in Winter 5w engine oils assist in starting the car and limiting engine wear.

Most of the engine wear on a normal car occurs at startup where there is limited lubrication.

Better re-read that chart.

I think you have that totally backwards.

The lower number is how the oil acts when cold (in the case of a 10-60 weight oil the oil acts as if it is a 10 weight oil (thin) when cold.

The higher number "60" reacts the same as a 60 weight oil (thick) when hot.

All engine oils get thinner when hot, so the oil will not be physically thicker when hot.

When cold you need a light oil to move from the sump to all the parts that need the oil to lubricate. In a freezing temperature climate ie Canberra in Winter 5w engine oils assist in starting the car and limiting engine wear.

Most of the engine wear on a normal car occurs at startup where there is limited lubrication.

Better re-read that chart.

Yep sorry i have the numbers around the wrong way;

But here's the chart;

post-27020-1209911315_thumb.jpg

The 10 or 10W is not a viscosity its a cold pouring index . So 20w50 is not 20 weight oil when its cold .

Synthetic oil is supposed to be quite "thin" when it's cold like very cold and this would be a huge advantage at start up .

Plenty of people like the Edge 10w60 but if the 60 number scares you Mobil do a synthetic 15w50 from memory .

If I was pushing a turbo engine hard and for any length of time I'd use the 10w60 too .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
    • @Rusty NutshI mate. Do you have a pinout diagram for the na neo auto ecu? 
    • Yeah thats the plan now. 🤞
    • Have a chat with the tuner, you'd want to drive the car straight there.
×
×
  • Create New...