Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, just saw on another forum that those cheapies are down to $77 (the ones from supercheap auto). now what i want to know, is there any way to run both in parralel to one air line. maybe have each reg on the compressor, run hose from each comp to an external reg, then a single hose from that to tools/spray gun etc.

now what i need to know, does such a thing exist, the two in, one out reg? i would still like to leave to two regs on the compressor becaause i dont want to rely on any hose to hold full pressure from the tank, would like to have reg on the tank, maybe set them both 10psi above the 3rd, in line reg?

any idea on current draw also (hard tof ind date on the cheapies)? i've heard there can be issues with tripping switches if they both turn on at once, not sucha big issue for me, just worried about overall current draw?

cheers,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219218-who-knows-about-air-compressors/
Share on other sites

Exactly what are you trying to acheive though?

Flow or pressure?

flow + tank capacity. mainly a decent free-air delivery rate, at a reasonable price (ie i'm a cheap motherf*cker)

i could run hose between the tanks and then a reg, but im just worried about running such high pressure through hose, i prefer to have low pressure through the hoses only... probly more a mental thing than anything, im sure you can get decent high pressure hose, but it'd still make me nervous lol

Edited by VB-
flow + tank capacity. mainly a decent free-air delivery rate, at a reasonable price (ie i'm a cheap motherf*cker)

i could run hose between the tanks and then a reg, but im just worried about running such high pressure through hose, i prefer to have low pressure through the hoses only... probly more a mental thing than anything, im sure you can get decent high pressure hose, but it'd still make me nervous lol

i have considered buying a couple of these second hand, pulling the motors off them and putting them on a gas tank from the wreckers, that way you would get the volume and the same pressure, maybe even change the gearing on the motors as well so it will fill the tank quicker.

i have considered buying a couple of these second hand, pulling the motors off them and putting them on a gas tank from the wreckers, that way you would get the volume and the same pressure, maybe even change the gearing on the motors as well so it will fill the tank quicker.

For the love of crumbcake, DONT mess with these little cheap compressors, especially with changing gearing. They are not built for it and can blow up if messed with. Also, gas tanks use a completely different set of connections to compressed air, and this is for a very good reason. They are not meant to deal with the amount of water and thus rust that a compressed air system will generate.

If you are setting this up in a garage, a neat trick I used a few times in setting up compressors that were a little small, was to hardline the recievers to a ring main - ie a steel pipe running the circumfrence of the workshop that acts as a secondary reciever. You could easily put 2 cheap compressors in the circuit, with a cheap and simple reg between the compressor and the ring main, and then just bung in a couple of take off points.

Few things to consider when you do this, make sure the ring main isn't mounted dead flat, and have at least one drop leg at the lowest point for condensation collection.

Only ever take your air points from the top of the ring main to avoid any excess water getting to your tools.

Only use screwed fittings, not welded as they are a LOT less likely to sufer catastrophic failure (go bang) and are much easier to seal.

Use a QUALITY air dryer/lubrication set up AFTER the ring main. Don't go cheap here, as it will just cost you money and heartache when all your air tools start crapping themselves.

Make sure you drain both the tanks and ring main at the end of every day.

For the love of crumbcake, DONT mess with these little cheap compressors, especially with changing gearing. They are not built for it and can blow up if messed with.

thats just an even better reason to try it :whistling:

Use a QUALITY air dryer/lubrication set up AFTER the ring main. Don't go cheap here, as it will just cost you money and heartache when all your air tools start crapping themselves.

Make sure you drain both the tanks and ring main at the end of every day.

maybe use a dryer set up from a truck, they have a filter between the air compresor and the tank used for the air brakes.

whats the go with fitting more storage space, ie a gas tank? surely you could buy screw in adapters to make it all work without doing anything dodgy/dangerous?

Not really, CNG and Nat Gas actually use their very own thread form to stop people from using the wrong spec fittings in them. Ever noticed how your BBQ gas bottle has a left hand thread...?

If this is definately the way you want to go, try an air tank out of a truck braking system or something similar.

yeah where would i look for something like that? dont really know of any truck wreckers, but im assuming thats all i'd need to find?

with LPG bottles, you should be able to get a fitting from somewhere, maybe just butcher one up?

semi-on-topic... i got a couple of fittings around to fill BBQ bottles with LPG (dont tell me it cant be done, im sick of hearing it, BBQ has been rejetted to suit), one of em even looks like a factory bit (ie not butchered). are automotive LPG bottles the same as BBQ ones? i cant think of any other possible place that it would come from?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...