Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB sounding like WRX = running on 5 or less cylinders.

Turbo should be fine, as I don't think it effects idle... more likely gasket on intake plenum gone bad, or coilpack/dead plug/sparkplug loom problem in one or more cylinders.

But I agree with Mike, don't drive it if its acting that erratic.

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate,

my housemate drives a WRX MY98, and his car is giving him some problems similar to yours eversince he got the car, which was about

one week ago. Sometimes the engine just idle below 1000RMP and it feels as if its choking and spitting black smoke out the back. I

was in the car with him once and the car enigne just went off in the middle of driving !!! It does that sometimes and when he went to

the workshop to have them have a look, everything seems ok. He just sent the car into the workshop again and left it there this

morning to get it inspected on what was wrong. I'll let you know whats wrong with his car once the mechanic calls him, hope its of

some help.

Cheers,

Donovan

I don't know if this will help.. or its just a noob answer.. but..

The last time when i was driving the celica, power got cut from my car.. rev's were sluggish, hard to get above 4k rpm, boost wasn't coming in.. and yes, in the middle of driving the car died as well..

Turned out to be a stuffed alternator as the car was low on battery therefore all these problems..

Guess it won't hurt to just use a multimeter and check ur alternator too while ur at it..

My2c

Bernard

RB sounding like WRX = running on 5 or less cylinders.

Turbo should be fine, as I don't think it effects idle... more likely gasket on intake plenum gone bad, or coilpack/dead plug/sparkplug loom problem in one or more cylinders.

But I agree with Mike, don't drive it if its acting that erratic.

I agree, intake gasket, coilpacks and maybe injectors... My one has similar problem except only runs 5 cylinders as one of my valves are bent in the 6th cylinder. Maybe you can get compression test done or even a leak down test?

hey mate,

my housemate drives a WRX MY98, and his car is giving him some problems similar to yours eversince he got the car, which was about

one week ago. Sometimes the engine just idle below 1000RMP and it feels as if its choking and spitting black smoke out the back. I

was in the car with him once and the car enigne just went off in the middle of driving !!! It does that sometimes and when he went to

the workshop to have them have a look, everything seems ok. He just sent the car into the workshop again and left it there this

morning to get it inspected on what was wrong. I'll let you know whats wrong with his car once the mechanic calls him, hope its of

some help.

Cheers,

Donovan

cheers for that. car seem so undrivable atm

I don't know if this will help.. or its just a noob answer.. but..

The last time when i was driving the celica, power got cut from my car.. rev's were sluggish, hard to get above 4k rpm, boost wasn't coming in.. and yes, in the middle of driving the car died as well..

Turned out to be a stuffed alternator as the car was low on battery therefore all these problems..

Guess it won't hurt to just use a multimeter and check ur alternator too while ur at it..

My2c

Bernard

i hope it is something that minor, will have a look

cheers

I agree, intake gasket, coilpacks and maybe injectors... My one has similar problem except only runs 5 cylinders as one of my valves are bent in the 6th cylinder. Maybe you can get compression test done or even a leak down test?

oh no. hopefully it isnt that, but if we still cant find the problem, ill get the compression and leak down test done asap

Mike just came over, none of the hose or piping seems to be off

When i turned the car on, the engine was really struggling this morning, and started shaking A LOT

but once it warmed up after 2 minutes of so, the car idled fine again.

so after bout 10 mins of idling

i slowly took in for a lap around a block..(slowly)...car drove fine again- no stalling or weird revs

so took it for another lap. this time i let it rev to bout 3000rpm, where it would usually be making boost----but i can only hear the turbo making humming noises, shows no boost on the boost gauge, and cant feel any at all

the turbo?

Hey....im not too sure about the turbo as my car is NA but really sounds like a coilpack to me i had one fail the other week and it was running like crap same as the way you say yours is running then i took it in the shop and they said they fixed it but then another one failed and it was even worse i suggest getting the tested. Just my 2c

your vented hood..wheres the opening on top of?

check around there as rain could of got water anywhere around that area.

if its near the pod then take it out and check it..

but i reckon maybe its the alternator like what Slowpoke said.

I've had an alternator die on me once in my R31 and it just didnt charge the battery and the cars power drained and the car died.. I don't see how that is going to cause all these symptons that he is having. How does a dicky alternator make your car idle weird and rev up on its own and no boost?

yeah ztuned i think water would get into the coil packs remember it happened to me so my Ztuned hood is now in the shed :wub: heheh but yeah when mine sounde dliek a WRX no boost it was water in the spark plug area it was like a pool :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...