Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I got an r32 wastegate actuator last week and installed it on my r33 s2. I was running the stock one before this with the high boost thingy. Anyways my car use 2 miss but i fixed that with the shelly's silicone.

Once installing the r32 wastegate actuator i drove the car for a few days and it would always miss in high revs on COLD mornings before work. On the way home from work in the arvo it was always fine with NO miss at all. Last night it missed again when it was cold.

Anyways i have a JJR split dump/front pipe and i unbolted it from the turbo and took off the wastegate actuator. The problem is that the thing the wastegate actuator arm connects to touches the inside of the dump pipe quiet a bit.

I just wanted to know if this causes any problems and should i do something about it rather then bolt it back together and put my stock wastegate actuator back on?

Thanks guys

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yea the actuator flap touches the inside of the dump pipe. I was thinking to use a grinder but i don tthink ill be able to get it far enough inside and even if i could it looks like it needs quiet a bit grinded out, to the point that ill probably put a hole in the dump pipe.

Do you know what problems can happen if i dont fix this issue? Or am i fine leaving it the way it is?

Cheers.

I had the same problem on my sr20, I had to change from a split to a single style and grind abit of the inside out.

It shouldnt cause it to miss, the only problem it could cause would be if the wastegate flap cant open far enough. the car will overboost.

When you swapped actuators, how did you set the boost level?

It sort of sounds like your miss problem is seperate to the flap hitting. If the flap only hits when it is already fairly wide open then it may not be the reason for your miss.

High revs on cold mornings with dense air and better cooling means better boost.

With the standard actuator i was using the high boost trick and when i swapped actuators i left it using the high boost. It some times creeps to about 12 or 13 psi in second which causes it to splutter with cold weather temperatures.

I was planning on putting my original wastegate actuator back on (which i did yesterday) because i dont want to go over 10 or 11 psi. My main concern now is the fact that the flapper is still touching and has been since i put the dump/front pipe a couple of months ago. I just want to know if its ok to leave it the way it is or should i end up changing the dump pipe?

Thought i would also say im not impressed with the JJR split dump/front pipes now due to this cause if i have to spend money on another drump/front pipe thats bullsh*t.

WET-25T i'm actually really suprised that you've found the flap to be hitting the inside of the jjr dump. I'm assuming you think its hitting like the roof of the upper dump line (wastegate line). and i'm also not sure how you can tell this completelybecause once its bolted up its bolted up and you can't observe whats going on.

i'm saying this because i have a jjr dump installed on my s2 r33 and i am actually quite happy wit the product. Honestly didnt notice a massive increase in power but the cars completely untuned (stock ecu) and these mods DONT necessaily mean increased power but will down the track. i did however notice induction noise came on earlier, so that prob means it is helping gain boost

i also run a turbotech boost controller and have set it to 12 psi, it pretty much hits this spot on according to my boost gauge.

yeh just a little suprised with your findings is all i have to say.

i could sort of understand what youve found....but yeh my experience is it operates fine...

The reason i know its hitting is because i knew i was gona get an r32 actuator so i read about them on SAU and found a thread where the guy had the exact same problem. What i did was i unbolted the dumppipe from the turbo but NOT from the cat so there was enough room for me to see what was happening when i pushed the dump pipe away from the back of the turbo.

With the dump pipe pushed back as far as it could go i opened the flap completely and the part where the actuator arm connects onto faced completely towards the back of the car. Then i pushed the dump pipe back on and opened the flap completely again but instead of facing the passenger front seat, it was pretty much facing the drivers seat.

With the dump pipe away from the turbo again i freely opened the flap again and could see the flap inside the back of the turbo physically hitting the inside of the wastegate dump pipe. Also note i had the actuator fully disconnected.

The end result is the flap DOES hit the inside of the wastegate pipe and quiet a bit to the extent where i dont think grinding it will make any difference in relation to it not hitting at all.

You should check yours out sometime i bet you will be surprised.

In regards to the JJR split dump/front pipe, i am happy with it except for this issue which i think is understandable.

Also i was originally using the high boost trick. I had the turbotech boost controller in my room which ive now installed again with the stock wastegate actuator and i think it was hitting about 11 psi possible with a little boost spike to 12 psi.

interesting stuff mate

i for one am not gonna change my dump cos i'm a lazy bastard...haha pretty much dont have time anyyway

hopefully someone may have an answer as to whhether a wastegate flap hitting the inside of the dump is a serious concern

obviously one would think there would be a considerable boost spike seen from this but i for one havent noticed any (apexi boost gauge...i think)

but whether or not the flap might shatter or deform in some way from the repetative impact could be another issue to look out for. My 2c is that its not a massive deal as long as your not seeing rediculous boost spike. I say this because its not like the flap really flings open real quick, well enough to damage itsef (that's how i understand it). but again thats only my opinion and i am not to be taken serious in anyway way haha.

most people would naturally say change it asap...but i'm seein no undesirable effects...so hence not changin back.

so good luck with it all anyway....and if what yu say you've observed is true (not confirming or denying) then it is quite disappointing from JJR.

Ok fair enough, thanks for trying to help me out anyways.

Im just wondering, with all the skyline wizards on this forum, why no one is trying to help me out. Do you guys not like me? Is this some kind of conspiracy against me? >_< Should i beg for it...

  • 3 months later...
Ok fair enough, thanks for trying to help me out anyways.

Im just wondering, with all the skyline wizards on this forum, why no one is trying to help me out. Do you guys not like me? Is this some kind of conspiracy against me? :( Should i beg for it...

I also have same problem have a r33 series 2 and got the jjr split dump pipe ... at revs over 4 - 5000 with foot down it builds boost and continues to climb until I get off the accelerator... would go up to 14 psi i should imagine... I took mine off today as i thought that was the problem after putting standard boost controller back and still had same result (overboosting). sure enough the waste gate is hitting on the inside of the pipe / welds... so I am going to attempt to grind it out and hope i dont put a hole in the pipe doing it. as the flap only opens about 1/3 the way open. Im guessing this isnt enough to stop boost building at high revs. sh&ts me to say the least as taking it off is a pain in the a%se and ive done it once already.............. I too dont want to have to fork out more money on something I already bought.

regards Rob

the only real option you have is to buy another dump pipe. consider one of the large bell mouth type ones. tomei, trust etc all work well and I haven't seen any of them have this problem. the HKS copies like the JJ one seem to get this problem from time to time as the wastegate pipe is quite small any variance in manufacture can cause problems. although if you explain the problem to just jap they would probably give you another one to try.

Hmm. So if i have a stock R33 S1 using the R33 stock actuator&ebc and plan on usign the JJR Stainless Bellmouth Front/Dump Pipe i wont get this problem because it only occurs with the split dumps?and also r32 actuators??

Please HELP as im just about to buy one :P

Thanks,

Dan.

buy another dump pipe as suggested . I've bought a couple of JJR units and all of them were cheap but, basically the build quality was crap. They all needed work done to fit properly and all of them I hav seen have flange missalignments that lead to at best poor flow and at worst stop the wastegate flap.

You are going to keep a stainless dump pipe for a vey long time so save up a couple of extra months and do it right once.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...