Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for reviving old thread but in search of building a responsive setup too, bought the car with GT2860-5 already which i find laggy but don't want to go to the hassle of replacing the turbo's with say a -7 or -9, recently bought Tomei cam gears hoping to get a tune soon with those and get abit more torque low end, car currently makes 262KW, not searching for power atm, response is my main goal for now, any suggestions?

Mods are:

Arc airbox with Stock AFM

Power FC

GT2860-5

700cc injectors

HKS exhaust

Tomei Cam gears

Thanks

Sorry for reviving old thread but in search of building a responsive setup too, bought the car with GT2860-5 already which i find laggy but don't want to go to the hassle of replacing the turbo's with say a -7 or -9, recently bought Tomei cam gears hoping to get a tune soon with those and get abit more torque low end, car currently makes 262KW, not searching for power atm, response is my main goal for now, any suggestions?

Cam gears and a good tune might net you ~300rpm but that'll be best case scenario really at the end of the day.

Overall the only two 'simple' options to improve the response is capacity or downsizing turbos.

Thanks for the reply, will put up a post soon to see if someone wants to swap -5's for -9 or -7's with cash adjustment depending on condition of my turbo's as i don't know what condition they are in, obviously not expecting brand new -7's or -9's haha.

Keep in mind that was with stock cams too with -9's.

My tomei type b's I'm running now were a bit of a disappointment down low for off idle to 3000 rpm response.

I was surprised how good the stock cams are!

  • 3 weeks later...

Got advised there won't be much difference if i swapped out the -5's for -7 or -9, will just waste my money since i already have the -5's in, so adding tomei cam gears, tomei poncams, arp head studs, and valve springs, hopefully after a tune it will sharpen response abit more than it is now :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...