Jump to content
SAU Community

Building An Rb26 For Response....


Recommended Posts

Sorry for reviving old thread but in search of building a responsive setup too, bought the car with GT2860-5 already which i find laggy but don't want to go to the hassle of replacing the turbo's with say a -7 or -9, recently bought Tomei cam gears hoping to get a tune soon with those and get abit more torque low end, car currently makes 262KW, not searching for power atm, response is my main goal for now, any suggestions?

Mods are:

Arc airbox with Stock AFM

Power FC

GT2860-5

700cc injectors

HKS exhaust

Tomei Cam gears

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea,realised that :( dunno what previous owner had planned for it. So I guess if im chasing after response I'll have to look for someone who wants to swap turbos haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for reviving old thread but in search of building a responsive setup too, bought the car with GT2860-5 already which i find laggy but don't want to go to the hassle of replacing the turbo's with say a -7 or -9, recently bought Tomei cam gears hoping to get a tune soon with those and get abit more torque low end, car currently makes 262KW, not searching for power atm, response is my main goal for now, any suggestions?

Cam gears and a good tune might net you ~300rpm but that'll be best case scenario really at the end of the day.

Overall the only two 'simple' options to improve the response is capacity or downsizing turbos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got it,thanks for the responses,anyone want to swap -7 or -9's for my -5s with a cash adjustment? Haha,read on another thread that -7 and -9 good for response?am I correct? XD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply, will put up a post soon to see if someone wants to swap -5's for -9 or -7's with cash adjustment depending on condition of my turbo's as i don't know what condition they are in, obviously not expecting brand new -7's or -9's haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep in mind that was with stock cams too with -9's.

My tomei type b's I'm running now were a bit of a disappointment down low for off idle to 3000 rpm response.

I was surprised how good the stock cams are!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Got advised there won't be much difference if i swapped out the -5's for -7 or -9, will just waste my money since i already have the -5's in, so adding tomei cam gears, tomei poncams, arp head studs, and valve springs, hopefully after a tune it will sharpen response abit more than it is now :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...