Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got advised there won't be much difference if i swapped out the -5's for -7 or -9, will just waste my money since i already have the -5's in, so adding tomei cam gears, tomei poncams, arp head studs, and valve springs, hopefully after a tune it will sharpen response abit more than it is now :)

250 or 260 poncams?

Bobby had a talk to me and said in terms of the lag between -5,-7 or -9 is around about the same, not with swapping it out of I already have -5s in,he advised me to get certain parts to improve response. 270 poncams 9.15 lift piggaz :)

So this is wrong?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tomei-poncam-Nissan-skyline-rb26-r34-gtr-in-270-ex-270-9-15-lift-/180970848112

I didn't get it from this seller, just a quick google and link thats all, but did get it from a different seller on ebay.

I'm not trying to be cocky or anything, just another noob trying to learn more xD, but i'm just working off what list was given to me and what i paid for.

Thanks for the info guys, keep it coming please :)

-7's are quite a bit more responsive than the -5's. Though if it is worth doing a turbo swap for that difference? Probably not. I would Just throw some Tomei type A (Maybe B) into it. Give it a good tune and get used to it. The money probably isn't worth the gain for you.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/efr-set_camshaft_rset.html

This is the tomei website, I can not find them there but do you care to have a look, I would be very suspecious of what it is you got, maybe post the part number when you receive them

Just messaged bobby to double check which ones i got and will definately post up the results. but in terms of the turbo, that what i was advised that it wouldnt be worth that extra money swapping out the turbos for that little bit of response, could spend that money on something else, might end up stroking in the long run, but for now, trying to improve response bit by bit without going to the extreme for now.

Thanks for all the responses guys, alot of help and much appreciated :)

For the long run, roughly how much would it be to convert to single turbo + labour if i wanted to further down the track, considering the parts be good enough for street use, and would i have to change the parts i'm putting in now to suit the single turbo?

Thanks

I recently got my car tuned with 'response' in mind.

I have -7's, ID2000's on pump 98 and stock internals, and this was the result:

1476343_10153636999910301_502255709_n.jp

Does this graph represent a "responsive" engine? Certainly feels responsive, as in there is very little lag when going full tilt.

Obviously it has a long way to go as far as HP is concerned, but would that response be sacrificed if boost pressure was increased?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...