Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have a bunch of bits from different cars that I am getting rid of.

I wont hold anything, first to turn up with the money gets them.

email me only! I dont get to PM's often enough and you will probably miss out if you pm me.

2 x Goodyear Revspec 255/40/17 Tyres, 1000k's on them tops. Bought to get through rego. $400

2 x R33 GTR Airbox + Snorkel, one from Series 1, one from series 3. $50ea SOLD!

Pair of R33 GTR N1 Front bar slots (brand new), unpainted $50 SOLD!

R33 GTR Bonnet Lip (brand new), unpainted $50

R33 GTR Blow off valve return pipe that runs under/behind the intercooler from valves. $50

R33 GTR Stock Blow off valves and mounting bracket $100

Pair of R33 GTR HKS Dump Pipes, used but good cond. $300 SOLD!

R33 GTR dash mount for 3 x 60mm gauges, nice moulded unit. Hole drilled in one side for wires (otherwise you have to go through the dash). $150 SOLD!

R33 GTR HICAS lock bar (brand new) $100

R33 GTR GReddy Timing Belt (brand new) $100 SOLD!

R33 GTR GReddy radiator pipe (brand new) $100 SOLD!

R33 GTR Front sway bar $50

R33 GTR Rear sway bar $50

R33 Engine Damper Kit (Brand New) $50 SOLD!

R33 GTR Stock fuel pressure regulator $50

R33 Stock tail lights $50 pair

WGNC34 260RS Centre Console $200

R33 Gtst Front Calipers, Rotors and Rebuild Kit $250

Defi BFII set. Includes Control Unit II, Amber Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure, all sensors. $600 SOLD!

Field R33 GTR ECU Loom extender (To go between your ECU and Loom so you can safely tap into your ECU wires. Has had 1 or 2 wires used on it only). $100

WGNC34 (And possibly R34) Air Con loom extension (for putting your AC unit in the glove box or somewhere else). $100.

Pivot shift light. Tiny. Used for a little while. $50 SOLD!

PICS UP -> http://picasaweb.google.com/cbiggins/PartsForSale

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220645-lots-of-bits-n-pieces-updated-2505/
Share on other sites

can i grab pics of the r33 gtr airbox's,is there anything wrong with the airbox's at all, ill take them both but just send me pics 1st and also pics of the hks dump pipes,

cheers tony

can i grab pics of the r33 gtr airbox's,is there anything wrong with the airbox's at all, ill take them both but just send me pics 1st and also pics of the hks dump pipes,

cheers tony

Pics coming soon. Airboxes are fine, were just replaced with pods.

complete rear assembly incl wheel studs?

Um.. Nope, just front calipers, rotors and rebuild kit... like it says.

Christian

Thread updated with new parts.

Emails received will reply to them first (before the PM's because I asked for emails in the first post).

Pics are taken, will upload them shortly.

there is no pics of the airbox, 1st dibs for both r33 gtr airbox

Yeah just realised.. Will get some.

and are they genuine hks dump pipes,

As far as I am aware, they are.

Christian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...