Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had 350awkw whilst on stock bottom end, when we pulled it down (due to oil pump failure) it was still in perfect condition

Don't doubt that you could make over 400kw, but I'd imagine you'd be running some risk

Edited by Morgs

This is a question that often belongs in the 'say what I want to hear' / ' I can't afford to run the powerful car' category

If you want to rely on the old stock engine in the old stock car then the limit is really around/just above where the stock turbos run out of puff or the size of your bank balance. You see, if it matters that the motor breaks then you have the lower limit of power. Alternatively the question is answered; power level = 'lets see if it breaks' when you have the finance not to care.

Someone I know ran a 10 with an unopened old stocker. If you have another motor waiting and own a car trailer then you have nothing to worry about.

The ideal is to look at 300rwkw or under and do as much as you can to make that power with the least strain on the old motor.

Further up the power level is a list of stock bits that will also fail according to application.

Edited by rev210

You have a R32 GTR.

Motor is what, 16 years old now at a minimum.

What MAX power can you make? Probably over 500rwkw for one dyno run.

Reliably however, 300-330rwkw would be a pretty good limit to set given the age of the motor

Other than that, its the age old 'how long is a piece of string'. Some fail at less, some more.

If you cant afford the rebuild, then dont chase power (rebuild = min $12,000 round trip including turbos etc etc)

i would say adding another 100 would be safe. i am conservative with rb26 cos i think with my pockets.

i have seen them with around 400 but its not an everyday car its driven once a month maybe. at 300alkw u have a very zippy car on the street and running very little risk.

With the stock turbos you should be able to make about 240rwkw without blowing the ceramic turbine wheels to bits.

Or go for some GT/SS's and provided you have computer/injectors/fuel pump you could be looking at 300-320rwkw on a reasonably safe 1.2bar.

With the stock turbos you should be able to make about 240rwkw without blowing the ceramic turbine wheels to bits.

Or go for some GT/SS's and provided you have computer/injectors/fuel pump you could be looking at 300-320rwkw on a reasonably safe 1.2bar.

With 1 bar boost on stock turbos, i made 265rwkw.

How long the stock bottom will last depends on how well the engine was maintained.

With 1 bar boost on stock turbos, i made 265rwkw.

How long the stock bottom will last depends on how well the engine was maintained.

similar here...made 287KW at SAU dyno comp with completely stock long engine and turbo's on 1 bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...