Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

why on earth would you? I'm not diff welding expert but I imagine it will be tricking as the GTR centre is a mechanical clutch pack type LSD. if you want a welded diff at least sell your GTR centre and get a crap GTST diff, weld that and put it in.

So a GTSt centre fits in a GTR housing? Or you mean the whole diff as one? What about the ATESSA pump mountings?

You would do this because youre low on money and need some traction at the rear! Im not saying its the best idea, but does the job?

you can run a gtst centre in a gtr housing no problems. You can't really change to the gtst housing in a gtr as it wil change your rear diff ratio (but not the front diff) so attessa will go all sad.

but you really should just shim up the standard one, you can get it as tight as you like without the disadvantages of a welded diff. under 300 to shim and adjust the stocker

early 32 GTR centres are worth next to nothing and Nismo shim kits are about $200...best way to go.

PM me if you want one with kit fitted ready to install.

later R32 centres on the other hand are expensive, much sought after and rare.

I thought f**k it, I went crazy and I got myself some 1.49 shims (LOL theyre hardcore thickest ones!) from Nissan, came next day. $6 bucks each!

Im going to chuck them in this week, will post results :)

Hopefully an insane amount of lock, I just didnt want a welded diff to wreck me suspensions...got a feeling it will be very close-to though.

if you really shim it up, it shoudlnt be as bad as a locked diff, but will still churp quite often on tight bends.

that said i dont see locked diffs as 'bad', infact my minispool was the best $100 i ever spent on my car :)

Edited by VB-
early 32 GTR centres are worth next to nothing and Nismo shim kits are about $200...best way to go.

PM me if you want one with kit fitted ready to install.

later R32 centres on the other hand are expensive, much sought after and rare.

What is the difference? and how do you tell them apart?

what if you just buy a lock diff, i got one in mine, took me ages to find out why my car was always clunking/tyre skipping sound, when turning, the car already had the lock diff in it when i got it

Any one welded up a R32 GTR diff at all - open enough to get a bead in there?
what if you just buy a lock diff, i got one in mine, took me ages to find out why my car was always clunking/tyre skipping sound, when turning, the car already had the lock diff in it when i got it

Are you sure you don't just have a very tight diff? They will act like this around most corners.

What happens if you put the clutch in or neutral, and take a corner pretty slow? Same locking on the corner?

  • 2 months later...
Guest snotass
Are you sure you don't just have a very tight diff? They will act like this around most corners.

What happens if you put the clutch in or neutral, and take a corner pretty slow? Same locking on the corner?

Guys please remember this request for diff lock or full spool is for drag application only and i simply want to lock the back diff up to keep her straight as posoble - i have no attesa or hicas etc - all gone - do have to make a choice still have done as yet.

Have engaged an engineering entity that says that bthey willl send me a proto type full spool but sadly have been waiting a very long time - have my doubts wether will come good .

need suggestions lads got to do in next few weeks - any one know where i can get a full spool.

Any examples that you know of with big HP with shimmed up tight rear diff - results ??

Guest snotass
I thought f**k it, I went crazy and I got myself some 1.49 shims (LOL theyre hardcore thickest ones!) from Nissan, came next day. $6 bucks each!

Im going to chuck them in this week, will post results :)

Hopefully an insane amount of lock, I just didnt want a welded diff to wreck me suspensions...got a feeling it will be very close-to though.

Matt,

how did you go here please? Keen to discuss your results.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...