Jump to content
SAU Community

Tapping Noise In Rb25

Josh_TypeX
 Share

Recommended Posts

Josh_TypeX Proficient

Josh_TypeX

Posted
Posted

Here's the story - The car is a series 2 R33. It hasn't been driven for over 6 months now (apart from in and out of the drive way), however i usually start it and let it run once a week. Last time i started it, it ran fine for a couple of minutes then a tapping noise started to come from the engine. It sounds to be coming from the back of the engine and will get faster as the revs increase. I'm thinking (hoping) it's just the lifters, however i'm worried that it could be piston slapping or something... Any help will be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221911-tapping-noise-in-rb25/
Share on other sites
Josh_TypeX Proficient

Josh_TypeX

Posted
  • Author
Posted
does the car still have good power?? i rekon its noisy lifters try putting some fresh oil in it see how you go

I haven't driven the car since the noise started, however the last time i drove it (over 6 months ago) it was still making good power. I plan to try changing the oil soon, if that gets rid of the noise does that mean it's definitely the lifters? Is it even possible to spin a bearing under idle? The noise came on suddenly under idle without previously being driven.

SKYYLINE Enthusiast

SKYYLINE

Posted
Posted
I haven't driven the car since the noise started, however the last time i drove it (over 6 months ago) it was still making good power. I plan to try changing the oil soon, if that gets rid of the noise does that mean it's definitely the lifters? Is it even possible to spin a bearing under idle? The noise came on suddenly under idle without previously being driven.

ok mate well just put some fresh oil in it let it run the noise should stop for you, there is no why you can spin a bearing at idle i have heard louder lifters then that before after rebuilds so dont be to worried

Strik3r Experienced

Strik3r

Posted
Posted

thats not a good noise.... sounds a lot like one of the pistons is slapping the wall....... very similar to how mine sounded before we pulled the motor apart and found a lot of bad :<

you need to get this checked out by someone good asap.. fingers crossed for you bud, hope its just lifters.

QUICKY Community Regular

QUICKY

Posted
Posted

mate ive heard dat same sound b4 on a rb25det neo that was bought from a reputable workshop. everyone said lifters, so i went to get the shims checked. All were within spec, so wasnt lifters. motor than got pulled apart. bearing were all fine. even compressions test came back fine lol.

And it was the EXACTTTTT noise, coming from the EXACT place. motor was stil making the same power, and i drove it for 5000kms (until the workshop replaced the motor for me) and it didnt get any worst or damage anything.

benkoau Enthusiast

benkoau

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had exactly the same problem except it was a little different when i started the car it would go tick tick tick for a few moments then after a bit it would stop but when i was driving i could hear it when the windows where down when i was driving,anyway about a week ago i did an oil change with some motul 4100 turbolight oil and its seemed to have fixed the problem.....the oil is expensive but give it a try it fixed my problem it may fix yours

post-38649-1212478847_thumb.jpg

Edited by benkoau

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35_Paul
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • CefiroA31
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By CefiroA31 · Posted

      Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...