Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I haven't purchased an r33 as yet, I am hoping to save another 3-4k and buy in a month or two. I am A bit concerned about the running costs of owning such a car. Going from my 93 xr2 Capri which costs $20-$30 a week for petrol, 500 bucks a year for insurance and rego etc, I understand there will be a bit of hike, but how much of a hike? Can anyone provide some examples to see what i might be getting myself into?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221919-r33-running-costs/
Share on other sites

That depends on a lot. This will give you a rough idea.

My R33, I spend $80 per week on petrol. I do drive about 400-450 k's a week though. If you're spending that little, you're probably not driving much.

Insurance is $1000 per year. I'm 23 years old with no bad driving history. Remember insurance goes on age, history and where the car is kept.

Fuel for me was ~$80 every week or every 1.5 week

Insurance was $300 for basic 3rd party, ~$500 for 3rd party + fire & theft or $1.5k for full. (I'm 21, on P & no accident history)

Rego was $440 for 1 year.

& major service cost me $550 at local shop.

The running costs are really the same as any other big 6-cylinder. Insurance can be high ($1800 for me) but apart from that you shouldn't see any extra expenses. It's not cheap because you'll WANT to throw more money at the car.

If you can live with a stockish R33 with only fire & theft insurance it's not too bad. If you get the modifying bug (you will) so many chances to spend money will pop up.

Thanks guys, I plan on getting a relatively stock r33 GTS-T. Would you guys reccomend getting thiry party fire and theft for $500-600, or full comp. I got a quote for $2000 full comp with just car- $3000 excess :D

Bottom less money pit if you know jack shit about skylines.

If you need to ask how much, you probably will struggle, given that petrol will be $2 bucks by the end of the year.

So make sure you have plenty of dosh for support.. but my Skyline was 12 years and VERY reliable, I paid good money for her though.

I sold my R33 GTST and now about to buy a Corolla.

Approx

Fuel can easily get up to $80 per tank = per week, depending how heavy your foot is.

Insurance = $1200 + $500 or so on rego = per year, I pay at the moment.

Maintanace + Parts, depending what needs to be done, its gonna cost to get it fixed.

Your fuel usage also depends on tune / non-tuned with mods.

Mines not tuned and has the basic mods (R32 Rb20det) and I won't get anymore than 320km no matter how I drive. I'll get 400 if I'm lucky on the highway! As I drive to work everyday (45min peak hour) and like to drive here and there on weekends my fuel bill can be a tank + a week. ($80+ nowdays!).

Im 21 & have 3rd Party Fire & Theft which costs me $750ish a year and Rego is just over $1k including Green Slip in Sydney.

Apart from that I've done nearly 20,000kms in the 1 1/2 years I've owned it and serviced it regularly and my only drama's been a fuel pump.

It's kind of funny, but my Skyline actually SAVED me money from my older VW GTI. Instead of paying 2500/yr, I paid 870 now... So the extra cost of premium fuel is well worth it IMO...but that is only because I live in BC and here the skyline is just as much to insure as a corolla because it isn't a common car as it wasn't available here unless it's 15 years old.

Im 18 pay 2 grand a year for fully comp. rego is like $600ish for a year and i spend about $240 a week on petrol :S 1200kms a week to and from work hurrah lol.

I spent a lot of time weighing up the options and crunching the numbers making sure i could afford it. But what I also had to understand and Im sure a lot of people here will agree is that skylines and budgets dont mix. With fuel & oil prices going up make sure you have a lot of padding with your budget so it doesn't affect you too much.

Despite how much gets spent on my car its all worth it.

I only fill my 33 up on average once a month....cause it gets driven hardly ever! :yes:

But on the track - yeah fuel not cheap.....

but....from what I can remember when my car 100% stock...and it was a daily...

fuel was around 60 a week and that about 350kms a tank

I kinda wish I kept it stock.....Id be a rich man lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...