Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I eat there a bit, but i would prefer going to kellys grill at the junction! ribs there as just as good if not better.

kellys is up near the cinemas! and best of all, no fu$#@$in waiting around!! as you cant book at huricanes after 6 for some reason.

:)

Edited by Angus Smart
so its official then, all blokes have the hiden away from wifey fund. mines been geting raided heavily as of late.

*cough* not to be talked about *cough*

some of us have wives who know where the internet is....

*cough* not to be talked about *cough*

some of us have wives who know where the internet is....

and watch this thread so they can keep account of the racing spend equivalent shoe and handbag fund

BUSTED!

'

Unless you have a laptop in the kitchen, you need to shorten the chain sir. :):(

Tiger some wives have their own lappy's and surf in here while hubby cooks dinner.

Actually I don't have such a fund,,,Don't need one,,we either have the money or I suffer dunlops at hillclimbs,,,,I just thought I would fish and see what I reeled in.

Neil.

What are you guys using for cam cap bearing studs/bolts?

the only ones i could find were tomei's. i reckon arp make them but i couldnt find an arp listing anywhere (only for porsche they list)

tomeicamcapstudsok7.th.jpgthpix.gifjohnshead015ww0.th.jpg

the only ones i could find were tomei's. i reckon arp make them but i couldnt find an arp listing anywhere (only for porsche they list)

tomeicamcapstudsok7.th.jpgthpix.gifjohnshead015ww0.th.jpg

Same thats all i can find - but not really cheap

The last 2 engines i did used JUN and GReddy...both are suitable.

Prices for them?

Ohh god when do we need to start with after market cam cap bolts they are the only nissan thing left in my soon to be repaired engine.

Same :P

Ohh god when do we need to start with after market cam cap bolts they are the only nissan thing left in my soon to be repaired engine.

good nissan ones are ok. plus the tomei/jun/trust etc are all stud kits.

yeah nissan will be fine for that. a lot of tuners I know these days prefer to steer away from head studs in 26's unless you really need them, and it's a similar story with cam cap studs. only worth doing if you really need to. i used brand new nissan bolts on mine, but as long as yours are good just use em again.

yeah nissan will be fine for that. a lot of tuners I know these days prefer to steer away from head studs in 26's unless you really need them, and it's a similar story with cam cap studs. only worth doing if you really need to. i used brand new nissan bolts on mine, but as long as yours are good just use em again.

agree...sometimes people can go a little OTT when it comes to engine hardware. They send me boxes and boxes of shiny Jap parts and ill put them in if they so desire. Ill recommend head studs to all RB's running 400kw+ but cam cap studs...the jury is still out on that one. My opinion is that they do not see much stress so bolt stretch will be minimum.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...