Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It uses individual inputs for the channels. You can either sniff off factory sensors such as water temp, or add new sensors. Usually you sniff water temp, add Oil Temp, and Pressure sensors, (add / sniff air temp depending on car), add fuel pressure and boost sensors.

The unit lets you put in the calibration points, its easy Voltage versus value. I have the calibration tables for a lot of sensors and if there is one I don't have I can do the table if you send me the sensor then add it to the available list.

It does not do knock as per PFC.

It will have the Lap Timing feature in it with the new ones that are coming now. That is what I am adding over the Christmas break. The guys at STZ Auto have one of my data loggers and will also have the new EM PRO II in their race car for testing etc. On a side note they are also testing my tyre pyro unit (3 sensors for tyre temps across tyre surface) that interfaces into my logger. To use the Lap Timer a GPS signal will be required.

Some of the features I have added that I think are "nice" are the advanced oil pressure alarm that allows you to put in 4 pressure points against RPM points. That way you dont have to wait until you have a minimum oil pressure (such as 10psi) while the engine is still at 7000rpm (for example, set that point up at 60psi). The other one is the fuel pressure alarm that is linked with boost, you put in the rising regulator scale factor and the fuel pressure is tracked against the air pressure in the engine. Again getting a much more accurate alarm.

So you think racers look at knock level on a game boy or oil temp, water temp and pressures etc.

Of course they do. Not many cars out there can be driven flat knacker lap after lap and not many guys out there have a pit wall full of people looking at the live data to get on the blower and tell them to look at problems. The reason why logger shave info on them with common alarm lights it to let the pilot know when temps are getting too high from too many revs, following the car in front too closely. Diff or gearbox temps getting too high. Oil pressure dropping...it may only happen on the straights when they have a fleeting moment to look...but I am sure they are looking at data otherwise why wodl they spend all that money on the dashes

There is a serial port connection on the unit. It is used to connect to a Laptop to set up the unit, download calibration data etc. You can set all the alarms etc from menu screens as well. I usually put in the calibration tables for you if I know the car and sensors being used. The serial connection can also be used to connect to the datalogger for logging the EM PRO II information. It will now also be used to connect to a GPS for the lap timing option.

The EM PRO II unit is $499, comes with two stage shift light and warning light and alarm buzzer. Also includes looms and external buttons.

I will have to get current 2012 pricing on all the sensors etc. I can get Oil Pressure Sensor, Oil Temp Sensor, Oil Sensor Spacer Plate, Intake Temp Sensor, Water Temp Sensor (usually just sniff factory though), Fuel Pressure Sensor, Boost Sensor.

If you have an aftermarket ECU (such as my GTR runs a HALTECH) you can copy the calibration tables from it into the EM PRO II and sniff off their sensors). I have tried to make the sensor interface as flexible as possible.

I am loving the oil pressure versus RPM alarm, and also the Boost versus fuel pressure.

However, wouldn't it be better to have maybe 10 available points to tune, so you can tune very 1,000RPM/10PSI of oil pressure?

When an alarm is triggered? does the alarm automatically go off when the fault has gone or does the user have to acknowledge the alarm?

Yes I can get aftermarket sensors and the ones I supply I have the calibration tables for ready to go. They are all quality sensors, Bosch, VDO etc.

On the number of points for Oil Press vers RPM, I understand what you mean by having points every 1000rpm but in practice this would probably become troublesome. Tuning the 4 points can take a couple of tweaks as on the track the oil pressure does drop slightly as the oil gets hotter. We tuned the 4 on the dyno, then had to adjust them again at the track with fine tuning.

On Alarm Acknowledgement, when an alarm goes off the screen shows that alarm "LOW OIL PRESSURE", if more than one alarm goes off they are in the priority order you assign to them. With up to 4 on the screen.

If you have assigned the Alarm Light, Buzzer or both to an alarm it will go off. You have two choices for clearing it:

1. Set the auto clear mode, this will clear the alarm once it has gone automatically. With this mode there is a user settable minimum hold time, so you dont get an alarm flicker (such as oil surge) and then when you look at the screen nothing is there. Set the hold to 5 or 10 sec and you will always have the chance to glance at the screen and see what the alarm was.

2. Set the alarms to only clear when you press the acknowledge button. Then they will hold until you clear them.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...