Fuel System

[MBS206]

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't having a go at your set-up I was just pointing out that your particular setup is probably not ideal for circuit use, which is what I'll be targeting this setup for

What sort of circuit? Full on racing, against other people, or just track work days, with SAU etc?

If just track days with SAU, I woudn't bother surge tanking it.

Just keep it all topped up with fuel, and it'll save you money!

Edit: If I wasn't so worried with legalities, maybe had a thousand more to throw around, I'd probably throw another 2 044s in my boot, with a 2L surge tank... (Leaving the current 044 as a lifter, and to 044 to feed the fuel rail, of which I'd run split entry single return, with a fuel cooler)

Unfortunately, I don't have the extra money to even put a normal surge tank in, with the 044 feeding the rail as it does now, and stock pump as a lifter...

I just don't see the point, as I like my limited boot space, and the easier legalities of it, attempting to keeping it look "stock" (Although, the f**k off high mount gives it away... )

Edited June 8, 2008 by MBS206

[PSI Parts]

What sort of circuit? Full on racing, against other people, or just track work days, with SAU etc?

If just track days with SAU, I woudn't bother surge tanking it.

Just keep it all topped up with fuel, and it'll save you money!

Edit: If I wasn't so worried with legalities, maybe had a thousand more to throw around, I'd probably throw another 2 044s in my boot, with a 2L surge tank... (Leaving the current 044 as a lifter, and to 044 to feed the fuel rail, of which I'd run split entry single return, with a fuel cooler)

Unfortunately, I don't have the extra money to even put a normal surge tank in, with the 044 feeding the rail as it does now, and stock pump as a lifter...

I just don't see the point, as I like my limited boot space, and the easier legalities of it, attempting to keeping it look "stock" (Although, the f**k off high mount gives it away... )

At this stage track work with SAU and various other forum organised events.

I hear what your saying but for the sake of $100 I feel safer with having a surge tank and not have to worry about keeping my tank full enough, which a few hard laps can put a serious dent in.

A one to two litre surge tank shouldn't take up much room at all if installed in properly, but I'll see how I go. You could even mount it in the spare wheel well and you wouldn't loose any room at all.

Using an 044 as a lifter seems like an extreme waste of money.

[Omurru]

All teflon lines on the inside of the car and no smell at all ever. When the boot trim is in you can't see any of the setup. haven't got and engine bay pics on hand but aeromotive reg, sx fuel filter mounted in stock filter location and dual entry single return rail with braided rubber lines, as wasn't worried about fuel smeel in engine bay, and the rubber lines are easier to route and fittings are cheaper

[Shaun]

Ill post some pics when i get home from work, but just thought id mention that i used my HICAS lines as fuel lines under the car. Once the rear steering is disconnected, theyre redundant, so why not use em as fuel lines. Theyre the perfect size! Just have some weld ons attached and away you go.

Ive got a walbro in tank lift pump, 2lt surge tank, Bosch 044 in line (under the car), and all done with Earls teflon lined braid. The teflon is a bit more expensive, but doesnt smell, ever. Its a must in my opinion.

Shaun.

[PSI Parts]

Ill post some pics when i get home from work, but just thought id mention that i used my HICAS lines as fuel lines under the car. Once the rear steering is disconnected, theyre redundant, so why not use em as fuel lines. Theyre the perfect size! Just have some weld ons attached and away you go.

Did you know that earls have connectors for metal tubing?

[DCIEVE]

Flaring the standard lines is a pain in the arse, well a single flare is ok but a proper double flare that wont leak isnt something I was able to do with a flaring tool... flaring ally line is a different story being so much softer.

[GTR1993]

The earls ones would use a 37 degree single flare.

[Shaun]

Did you know that earls have connectors for metal tubing?

Yeah i knew. I'd much rather have a 'weld on' welded on though, just for piece of mind.

I did, however, have a few problems with one weld that had a few pin holes in it. It required re welding.

Shaun.

[Shaun]

Yeah i knew. I'd much rather have a 'weld on' welded on though, just for piece of mind.

I did, however, have a few problems with one weld that had a few pin holes in it. It required re welding.

Shaun.

This is the only pic ive got. Thought i had more.

Shaun.

[GTR1993]

Yeah i knew. I'd much rather have a 'weld on' welded on though, just for piece of mind.

I did, however, have a few problems with one weld that had a few pin holes in it. It required re welding.

Shaun.

Depending on the size you get a tube nut and a tube sleeve put it on the metal line, then flare the line with a 37 deg flare tool, then it screws onto the normal dash fitting. I can show you some pics if you like. This gets around having to weld to the thin lines.

[zebra]

What are people thoughts on using barb ends and rubber fuel line on a surge tank setup? I keep eyeing the 044 pump we have at work

How bad is the smell? (I used to own a carburetted rotary so compare it to that)

I dont have a huge amount of dollars to throw at braiderd/teflon lines, and if I do go a setup with rubber lines am I better off having the surge tank under the car if I wanna use rubber lines?

Cheers Guys

[Shaun]

Depending on the size you get a tube nut and a tube sleeve put it on the metal line, then flare the line with a 37 deg flare tool, then it screws onto the normal dash fitting. I can show you some pics if you like. This gets around having to weld to the thin lines.

Yeah, i didnt really go into it that much when i was doing the fuel system. It was a pain in the arse assembling it all, priming the fuel system, then having the smallest little spray of fuel go all over my polished engine!

Its all done now though. No leaks.

Shaun.

[PSI Parts]

What are people thoughts on using barb ends and rubber fuel line on a surge tank setup? I keep eyeing the 044 pump we have at work

How bad is the smell? (I used to own a carburetted rotary so compare it to that)

I dont have a huge amount of dollars to throw at braiderd/teflon lines, and if I do go a setup with rubber lines am I better off having the surge tank under the car if I wanna use rubber lines?

Cheers Guys

I would definately put the setup underneath the car if you can't afford the teflon lines. Barb and hose fittings with a stainless hose clamp should do the job. Although from memory fuel hose with a high psi rating can be quite expensive too.

Still wanting to know if people have used (or even thought about) a block off for changing of fuel filters?

[Shaun]

What do you mean by a 'block off'?

I dont see the problem with changing fuel filters and then just priming the system when done. Maybe mine is different, but when i turn my ignition on, the fuel pump fires up, primes the lines, and then i turn the engine on.

Ohhhh, hang on............. is this so that when you take the fuel filter out, you dont lose all the fuel from the surge tank because its higher than the filter youre replacing??

I think i get what your saying now. Ive always just used thes rubber 'bungs' from clark rubber to stop the fuel leaking. Its probably a bit easier for me though because ive got hard lines under the car.

[PSI Parts]

Yeah, so that when you change filters you do not have to drain the fuel setup and get shit everywhere, you simply turn the block off and unscrew the filter.

or

[rb26s13]

Ill post some pics when i get home from work, but just thought id mention that i used my HICAS lines as fuel lines under the car. Once the rear steering is disconnected, theyre redundant, so why not use em as fuel lines. Theyre the perfect size! Just have some weld ons attached and away you go.

Ive got a walbro in tank lift pump, 2lt surge tank, Bosch 044 in line (under the car), and all done with Earls teflon lined braid. The teflon is a bit more expensive, but doesnt smell, ever. Its a must in my opinion.

Shaun.

ive been contemplating it for a while now.. got any pics of the fittings you got put on the ends?

[Gav]

Yeah, so that when you change filters you do not have to drain the fuel setup and get shit everywhere, you simply turn the block off and unscrew the filter.

or

I would think that these are low pressure devices that are designed for the suction side of externally mounted pumps?

[Shaun]

ive been contemplating it for a while now.. got any pics of the fittings you got put on the ends?

No, sorry i dont have any pics. I just bought some mild steel 'weld ons' from Earls and had them welded onto the ends of the HICAS lines (i think i also had some silver soldered). Obviously youve gotta clean the lines well before hand.

Also, you can get two types of weld on; one with a round outer edge, and one with a hexagonal outer edge like that found on a nut or bolt. I recommend getting the latter, so that you can reduce the torque (with a shifter) placed on the weld when tightening the fitting to it.

Shaun.

[Sydneykid]

No, sorry i dont have any pics. I just bought some mild steel 'weld ons' from Earls and had them welded onto the ends of the HICAS lines (i think i also had some silver soldered). Obviously youve gotta clean the lines well before hand.

Also, you can get two types of weld on; one with a round outer edge, and one with a hexagonal outer edge like that found on a nut or bolt. I recommend getting the latter, so that you can reduce the torque (with a shifter) placed on the weld when tightening the fitting to it.

Shaun.

I also used the unused HICAS lines as they are the right diameter and go from (rear RHS) and to (front RHS) the right places. I made up a 4 braided hoses, 2 for the engine end and 2 for the boot end. They simply screw onto the HICAS lines. I used the original HICAS fittings for samples and took them along to Motorsport Connections to buy the connectors. For the later version I actually bought the relevant fittings and hose online from Racer Parts Wholesale in the US, for about half what the first set cost.

For changing filters and draining the tank I have a Jiffy Tite dry break fitting installed in the hose;

Cheers

Gary

[Shaun]

I also used the unused HICAS lines as they are the right diameter and go from (rear RHS) and to (front RHS) the right places. I made up a 4 braided hoses, 2 for the engine end and 2 for the boot end. They simply screw onto the HICAS lines. I used the original HICAS fittings for samples and took them along to Motorsport Connections to buy the connectors. For the later version I actually bought the relevant fittings and hose online from Racer Parts Wholesale in the US, for about half what the first set cost.

Cheers

Gary

Yeah, i think theyre 3/8 in diameter or something like that. They couldnt be in a better place really. Silly to run braid or any other solid line under the car if these are unused.

Shaun.