Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone tried adapting something or making some custom set of piston oil squirters up for the rb30 hybrids to help reduce piston temps? No, not trying to pick up the main gallery and bolting squirters to the block where they are in the other RB's if someone suggests that its too difficult to do. I have read and been told this before.

I havent seen anyone having any major dramas yet with piston temps or det/knocking because of a lack of piston cooling, but that doesnt mean it hasnt happened. I know that the forged pistons that most people use in their hybrid builds are pretty good at handling the increased temps as induced from increased power. But is splash feed enough to cool the piston as well as lubricate the bore and wrist pin? or splash directed from conrod bearing skirt grooves? Could the latter have a similiar effect on piston cooling, comparable to straight squirters or doesnt it have enough direct pressure to reach and flood the underneath of the piston?

I had this thought when i was thinking about blocking the internal oil returns today. I have a roughish idea of what could work for piston oil squirters, but i imagine someone else would have already done something or tried something before as rb30 hybrids have been around for quite a while now.

Any ideas or knowledge are welcome.

Michael.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223856-piston-oil-squirters-aftermarket/
Share on other sites

Hey Michael,

I think a better idea is to have the piston crown ceramic coated. Gary has also suggested and tried this I believe.

There is a shite load of oil being spalshed around inside an engine at 7000 plus rpm, so lubrication shouldnt be an issue.

I will be going the ceramic way with my new engine, as I will be running a higher comp and dont want any detonation issues.

interesting...I have heard about it before....but then there was the argument that it can create hotspots by localising heat in areas where the coating isnt the same thickness or whatever...blah blah...But I guess if Gary has used it and its been proven it must be feasable. So ceramic is another option then. Cheers Brad!

I was having a chat to an engineering shop about this.

The thickness of the ceramic coating can be varied, with a thinner coating being less susceptible to the hot spot issue but if it's coated correctly then you won't have this problem (according to them).

Something else I was thinking about is the power loss the piston oil squirters produce. Surely at 7000rpm with 100PSI of oil pressure shooting the underside of the piston as it tries to move down the bore would be power robbing in some way?

  • 2 weeks later...

I have done the piston oil squirters into an rb30det (26/30). We used std nissan rb20 oil squirters. It took alot of mods and a crank grind to make sure they cleared. If anyone would like more info PM me and ill make a topic on my build.

Im doing them but im in NSW...$30 per piston and $30 to get skirts teflon coated or $55 for both

Awesome, that is alot cheaper than I was expecting.

Is the teflon skirt coating the same as that oil retention coating that sydneykid talks about?

the best coating i've seen is the HKS step 3 pistons. from memory it goes ceramic coated crown, titanium coated ring lands (and top ring) and moly coated skirts. it's like the neapolitan ice cream of the piston world.

The oil serves two purposes on the under side of the piston. Yes one is purely to cool the piston from the high temps.

The other is that cooler pistons mean a cooler burn which means better emissions. (Even some crappy old NA motors have oil jets). The bonus for performance is that a cooler piston creates a bigger difference in heat from intake stroke to exhaust stroke, leading to higher hp.

So oil jets can cool the pistons, but you can take advantage of the cooler piston by running more timing or boost to make more power, which actually cancels out the cooling of the piston for reliability.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...