Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay Dohmar, and I do notice what you are talking about and aknlodged it when obviously I first laid my eyes on a 32 GT-R so don't talk me down like I'm retarded and I can't at all agree with you in saying it looks better anyhow everyone is entitled to their own opinion lol.

-W

lul.

favourite of the old celsior.

Celsior036.jpg

havent taken many pic's of the 200 (its been off the road half of the 7 months ive owned it...), but i quite like this one.

IMG_1496.jpg

thats before i got awesome wheels, coils, and kit. more pics pending. jay-019 (plugplugplug) will be taking some pics of it august, and ill be taking it out for another shoot as soon as its rolling, in dirty-unwashed-3-months-worth-of-dust-and-standard-rear-wheels spec.

Edited by scandyflick
Okay Dohmar, and I do notice what you are talking about and aknlodged it when obviously I first laid my eyes on a 32 GT-R so don't talk me down like I'm retarded and I can't at all agree with you in saying it looks better anyhow everyone is entitled to their own opinion lol.

Settle down boys or ill give you both a fat lip so you match.

No I wouldn’t do that nor could I deliver but I felt like a big tuff guy saying it. damn im cool :mellow:

hurry up and fix that thing krish. needs to be back to its former neatness.

I know i know....its been a very long time since that thing looked like that.....dont fear the tax man is here so now things should get rolling...

I don't have any good poised shots like you guys do :mellow: , but here is one of when i had the body kit resprayed and refitted. The only difference between then and now is, the brake calipers are resprayed - Candy Metallic Red, and the car is Dirty - can stay like it for awhile longer, want to get more car care products first.

post-58049-1247707284_thumb.jpg

Edited by Aberax
I don't have any good poised shots like you guys do :( , but here is one of when i had the body kit resprayed and refitted.

lol, its pretty easy to take random posed shots when youre a shift worker and have nothing better to do. :mellow:

id be more than happy to take some snaps of your car sometime if you want?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...